Breaking Out Solo: Panjim Old Quarters

Goa is synonymous with beaches and beach parties. Not many people venture into the towns and cities away from the seaside, but if they do, they will be rewarded by some fascinating sight, bustling with culture and life.

I had spent a couple of days in Panjim while visiting Goa last February. It wasn't a long enough stay, but it was an invitation for me to visit again in future. Here are a few glimpses from the Old Quarter I had captured on my camera as I wandered through the neighbourhood.

Maruti temple

The Maruti temple was my first stop just because it was close to the guesthouse I was staying in. The overnight celebrations at the temple had kept me up all night, which made me even more aware of its proximity. I was visiting during the biggest festival of Lord Hanuman in the area. The festival draws devotees from far and out. To celebrate the festivities, the neighbourhood had dressed up in fairy lights and colourful paper flags. As with any festival in India, a fair had come up for the week, selling a variety of local merchandise and lip smacking food.

The temple is on the Altinho hill and can be accessed by a short flight of stairs.

Goa Panjim Old Latin Quarters Fontainhas

Lord Hanuman's procession the evening before. I was out for food and was not carrying my camera to capture the moments. Hence a short clip on my mobile phone camera instead.

Near the Maruti temple is the Fontainhas of Phoenix springs (I did not see these, but heard about them later). The spring water from the rocks is collected in tanks for use by the general population. The old quarter derives its name from here.

Fontainhas

Fontainhas is named as such due to its location beside the hill "with little springs". It was built in the late 18th century on reclaimed land, between the AltinhO hill and Ourem Creek, during the Portuguese occupation of Goa. The Creek still exists, but as a stream of black water with an ominous smell unfortunately.
Walking through the narrow winding lanes between colourful villas with their hanging balconies, sloping red roofs, beautiful porches, past the simple whitewashed facade of the Portuguese baroque style churches, one is easily transported back to the colonial era. It was very similar to how I felt walking through the streets of old Macau for the first time. While I was soaking in the colonial charm, the unfamiliar sound of a foreign language startled me. I looked around and realised they were no visitors, but just the locals passing by, chatting in Portuguese.

I am sure there would be many secrets hiding within this old neighbourhood, but for now, I could only appreciate its ambience during my very short stay. The only surprise I got to sample was the food at Viva Panjim, probably the most famous Goanese restaurant in Panjim. It is tucked away in a small by lane in the old quarters.

The Peacock steps
Beautiful artwork amidst the Latin Quarters of Panjim. Was lucky to find this on my very first day in Panjim. The next morning, a big dump of construction material had landed right in front of it.

Altinho hill, the picturesque hilltop locality of Goa.

Once considered a posh residential area, it houses the Portuguese consulate, the High court, the radio station (which I couldn't find) and then up the Archbishop stairs which lead, obviously, to the Archbishop house. Surrounded by greenery, this is the highest point on the hill. The Archbishop house is now an administrative building and has a quaint chapel within which can be visited.

Walking back from Altinho hill, encountered this beautiful piece of street art

Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Church

The pristine exteriors of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Church, Panjim was gleaming in the bright sun and had been beckoning me since I stepped into Altinho. It was time to visit this beautiful church.

What started as a chapel in 1541 is now an example of the Portuguese baroque style architecture, plain and simple in its design. Photography is not allowed inside, and as a first time experience, had to take off my shoes while entering a church. Different countries, different cultures, different rules.

The Old quarters at night

Finally, to end the day, here's some night photographs. I was with Vani who had arrived from Arambol in the afternoon and we had gone out for dinner.

Here's more about Vani - Arambol Diaries - Vani

We were pretty depressed after eating an overpriced, sub-par meal at the Ritz Classic and were trying to cheer ourselves up at the local fair. Vani bought a couple of dresses and I got a lovely peach coloured hand embroidered scarf. There was a fair amount of haggling involved.

On returning to the guesthouse, the owner laughed at us and said "No one goes for dinner to Ritz. It's only for lunch". Should have gone to Viva Panjim instead where I had a delicious meal the night before, while soaking in its beautiful ambience.