Monday 16 December 2019

"Mingalaba" Myanmar - Part II | Yangon Day 1

Rested in my nicely air-conditioned room, I woke early ready for my first day in Yangon. I specifically mention the air-conditioning as without it, the room would have been extremely stuffy and uncomfortable. The windows were sealed shut but the streets of Myanmar can be noisy and dusty. It was probably a desperate attempt by the hotel.
In the very short time that I had to plan the trip, I was unable to schedule my individual days and had decided to just wing it. Before going to bed the previous night, I had talked to the landlady about it and also ran through the 'Things to do in Yangon' list. This had given me a tentative idea about what I was going to do through the day. But first, I needed breakfast.

Read the previous posts from Yangon
"Mingalaba" Myanmar - Part I | The Arrival
Yangon Circular Railway

The lovely lady at the hotel had asked if I would like to try a traditional breakfast. It was included in the room price. How could I say no to that. The dish in question was mohinga. It's noodles served in a fish based soup with a number of ingredients as toppings. The interesting part of this dish is, despite the presence of fish, I did not get the fishy smell at all. Mohinga is available at all hours of the day in every corner of Myanmar. No wonder it is considered to be Myanmar's national dish and became my favourite.

Mohinga

Sule Pagoda

Post breakfast, I set out to visit the Sule pagoda, a short walk from my hotel. I needed a local sim, but the shops were not yet open. I went past quite a few makeshift eateries set up on the pavement serving mohinga and other noodle items, everything secured from the dust and pollution by plastic tents. Young boys and girls, wearing the traditional longyi were seated on short stools gathered around these eateries, chatting and laughing.
Food is a big part of the Myanmar culture as is there spirituality, something I would come to realise through my stay.

The 44m high octagonal golden spire of Sule pagoda stands as a prominent landmark of downtown Yangon. Legend has it that the original pagoda was built during the lifetime of Buddha over 2,600 years ago. The present structure of the pagoda came around the 15th century. It was during the British rule that the city was redesigned and Sule became the centre of downtown Yangon. The pagoda enshrines a hair relic and is held in high reverence by the Buddhists. While entrance is free for locals, foreigners have to pay 5,000 kyat. Shoes are to be left outside, and hence along with the payment receipt I received a freshening towel to wipe my feet clean before putting back the shoes.

I spent some time at the pagoda, first paying my respect and then just observing the locals. They came dressed in office wear and school uniforms to offer their prayers before starting out with their day. As I said before, spirituality is ingrained deep in this predominantly Buddhist country.

I was greeted by a young man claiming to be a student and willing to practice his English. He wanted to show me around Yangon. No price was quoted. But since I had my own relaxed plans, I had to decline politely. Later, another young man approached me inside the pagoda with a similar proposal Probably this was a thing among the locals. However, they were not persuasive and gracefully accepted my apologies.

Sule Pagoda, Yangon

Sule Pagoda, Yangon

Sule Pagoda, Yangon

Sule Pagoda, Yangon

Sule Pagoda, Yangon

Sule Pagoda, Yangon

Sule Pagoda, Yangon

Old Yangon

A variety of old and new structures surround the area around Sule pagoda. The most prominent are the Yangon city hall and the Mahabandula park. The sun was already starting to get hot and it was barely 9am. Through the park, I walked past the massive obelisk of the Independence monument where a party of pre-wedding shoot photographers were trying to make a very awkward couple pose intimately.

I walked out of the park to reach a much older part of Yangon. Rows of colonial era buildings, some derelict while others retaining their character looked down the narrow lanes. Hawkers stalls lined up were busy with people gathered for food and chat. Everyone looked happy, making me realise once more the significance of food in the Myanmar culture.

Yangon was reminding me so much of my hometown Kolkata. Both the cities have had a similar history, having being under the British rule and both a capital city. There have been many visitors to the erstwhile Rangoon from Bengal, and there must have been an intermingling of culture. It all felt very familiar.









Yangon Circular Railway

I had planned to walk to the Yangon Central Railway station to visit its distinct looking building. My original intention was to ride the 46km circular railway, not only to have a glimpse of rural Yangon, but also to escape the heat. The sun was raging on Yangon by now. However, the railway line was undergoing renovation and was partly closed. I eventually took a ride on the train. Even though it was not up to my expectations, it still was an amazing place for people watching. You can read about the journey on this post - Yangon Circular Railway


I was hot, thirsty and hungry when I exited the station and headed into the first convenience store I came across. Even before I had paid for it, I had gulped down almost a litre of chilled water. It was time to find food. Searching on the net, the 999 Shan Noodle shop came up as a top option in my vicinity. Glad I had purchased the local sim card earlier. I headed for a slow, late lunch. The popular shop is in a street with some interesting buildings and had a substantial percentage of western visitors. The food was cheap. I ordered a noodle soup that cost me something around 1000 kyat.

Yangon, Myanmar


Yangon, Myanmar

Streets of Yangon

Energised, it was time to hit the roads again. This time, my destination was China Town for the night market. The landlady at my hotel had advised me to go there early evening as she did not think I would feel safe later in the night. I could not imagine Yangon to be unsafe given my experience through the day, but it is always sensible to listen to local advice.

I was following the Sule pagoda road to the Yangon night market. As I passed each narrow lane crisscrossing the main road, my senses was assaulted by a multitude of sight, sound and smell. The demographic was changing as well, as I found myself walking through Muslim neighbourhoods. Road side stalls were selling food ranging from dosa, pakora, samosa and biryani. It definitely was a hotpot of cultural mix.
I gradually reached a quieter part of the town when I heard someone speaking in what sounded like Cantonese on the phone. I figured I was close to China Town.

Yangon, Myanmar

Yangon, Myanmar

Yangon, Myanmar

Yangon, Myanmar

Yangon, Myanmar

Yangon, Myanmar

As the sun started to set, I could see the night market on the opposite side of the busy wide road. The market appeared very quiet, probably still being set up for the evening. Without a pedestrian crossing in sight, as with many roads of Yangon, I was not willing to put the effort of trying to cross through rushing traffic. I was tired and too early for the market. Decided to call it a day and headed back, but not before I had stopped for some night shots of the Sule pagoda.

Sule Pagoda, Yangon, Myanmar

A traditional Burmese dinner

Back at the hotel, showered and refreshed, I was looking for food. The landlady had recommended some Indian restaurants, but I was adamant on going local. She suggested I visit one serving Burmese food. I forget the name of the place, but it was my first introduction on how to order food in Myanmar. I only needed to order the main dish, like meat or fish and my table was set up with a multitude of side dishes along with the rice. There is always a salad where a raw vegetable, egg plants on this occasion, makes an appearance which is to be had with a strong tasting fish sauce called ngapi. The food here was one of the more expensive ones I had in Myanmar costing me about 8000 kyat. But it also included three main dishes.

Myanmar food


Next morning I was going to visit the famed Shwedagon pagoda. As I went to bed, was still speculating whether to go for a sunrise visit. My first day in Yangon had already drained me of all my energy. After my train ride on the circular railway, I was feeling very overwhelmed and was starting to seriously doubt my decision to spend two days in Yangon. However, walking the streets of Yangon in the afternoon had changed my perspective and I found myself gradually warming up to the city.

My post on the Facebook page that night, a moment from the circular railway journey.
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Sunday 15 December 2019

"Mingalaba" Myanmar - Part I | The Arrival


I had just about returned from my diving holiday in Amed (check the diving videos at the bottom of the page) and now had two weeks to survive at work. I was leaving Hong Kong for good and Amed was supposed to be my last holiday. However, I was not flying out for another two weeks and while my head was telling me to utilise the time to pack my bags, my heart was craving for one last outing before I became officially unemployed. When the travel bug bites, the heart always wins over head. It was already middle of October and I only had two weeks to decide. So it was time for business.

Some of my tips about visiting Amed published in For Something More. They are an amazing site for visiting offbeat places. Do take a look around their page.

I had always wanted to visit Bagan. The mystic images of a landscape dotted with thousands of temples had always fascinated me. But there wasn't any straightforward way to reach Bagan and direct flights to Myanmar from Hong Kong was through Yangon only. Myanmar has only recently started to open up as a tourist destination and information still isn't as easy to come by. The travel forums, with real answers from experienced travellers were of immense help for the planning. But on the flip side, the more I read, the more places I wanted to visit. I ended up with an itinerary much longer and complicated than I had intended thus leaving me with just five days to wrap up my life in Hong Kong. I figured that was something I could worry about once I returned. At that moment, I was pretty chuffed with myself for pulling out an itinerary that felt incredible! I even managed to use my air miles for the flight to Yangon, a good start to an intended budget holiday.

I bid goodbye to my colleagues at work and headed for the airport on 30th October afternoon, a day before I was officially finishing. It was good that I had kept my last holiday as a contingency, as otherwise the flight times would have been very inconvenient. The Cathay Pacific flight landed on time just after 4pm in Yangon. The e-Visa had already been applied for and approved. Immigration was smooth. I stopped to buy some Kyat (pronounced 'chhat') at the airport. The rate was good and interestingly two neighbouring shops sold it at different rates. Couldn't figure out who would opt to buy at a lower rate.

My hotel was near Sule pagoda in downtown Yangon. A bus service runs to the city from the airport, and I was directed to the stop by the helpful locals. As I stood in front of the open doors of the still driverless bus, an elderly gentleman approaching asked in broken English where I wanted to go. I mentioned Sule and he confirmed I was at the right place. Passengers boarding the bus deposited 500 kyat in the money box as they walked in, unsupervised and I did the same. The helpful gentleman was already seated at the back of the bus. He pointed at the seat beside him asking me to sit. He then took out his glasses and read my hotel address and assured me he will tell me where to get off. It was a slow journey through the traffic, taking around an hour and half. We alighted on brightly lit busy streets of downtown Yangon. My knight in shining armour walked me to a distance and then directed me how to find my hotel. I couldn't thank him enough.

Steep set of stairs greeted me at my hotel. I was staying at the Royal Star, even though it was more a backpackers abode. I had booked a single room, but was upgraded to a double, which turned out to be a fancy duplex with wooden steps leading up to the bed. I dragged my backpack up the stairs on to the tiny space by the bed. This would be my home for the next two nights. The days would be spent finding Yangon.

Facebook post from the night.
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Some diving videos from Amed. Subscribe to Breaking out Solo to see more videos from my travels.




Sunday 8 December 2019

Yangon Circular Railway

Search for 'Things to do in Yangon' and one of the top attractions that comes up is its circular railway. Built during the British era, the circular railways connects Yangon to its suburbs and the 46kms journey takes about three hours to complete. It is rated as a must do by the many travellers who have visited Yangon, the reason stated is that it gives a true glimpse into the lives of the common people and rural Myanmar. The reviews also state that the scenery the train passes through is stunning.

I was reading this while browsing the net as I lay on my hotel bed. I had arrived in Yangon only a few hours earlier. The planning for Myanmar was done in a rush and I did not have the time to look up specific things to do in each location. With such rave reviews, I decided to keep the morning for the circular railway.

Next morning, over a bowl of delicious mohinga I told my landlady about my plans for the day. When I mentioned the circular rail, she said it was closed for repairs. I thought I would anyway go take a look at the colonial era building of the Yangon railway station later in the day.

I spent the morning first at Sule pagoda and then wandering the fascinating streets of Yangon. At about 10:30am I reached the old yet impressive looking station.

Yangon railway station, Myanmar
Yangon Railway Station

Yangon railway station, Myanmar
Train lines 

Yangon railway station, Myanmar
Lines crisscross 

Feeling somewhat lost, I spotted a sign for tourist information and manoeuvred through the stairs and gates to reach it. In the room was a desk and a lady seated by it. She greeted me with Mingalaba and told me that the circular rail was still running, but partly. The middle section was closed for repairs and I could take the train either clockwise or anticlockwise and return. When I asked which section she recommends, she said, definitely go to Hlawga. It would be a 2hr return journey as per her and given the day was getting hot, I thought it will be good to spend some time in the shade. Figured I could survive a couple of hours and would have my lunch once I got back to Yangon. The train was leaving at 10:50am and it was already 10:48am. She told me I could still make it if I ran. Follow the signs to platform 6 and 7, she said and tickets are available on the platform. By the way, much of this conversation was carried out through hand signs.

I ran all the way hoping I do not miss the train as the next one was an hour later. I bought my tickets, costing a mere 200 kyat and then I waited. It was probably another 20 mins before the train arrived. I spent my time clicking photos on the platform.

Yangon railway station, Myanmar
Footbridge connecting the platforms

Yangon railway station, Myanmar
The circular railway stations

Yangon railway station, Myanmar
Station hall

Yangon railway station, Myanmar
Lazy day

Yangon railway station, Myanmar
Waiting area

Yangon railway station, Myanmar
Waiting at the platform

Yangon railway station, Myanmar
Waiting tourists

Yangon railway station, Myanmar
A rebellious spiderkid

Yangon circular railway, Myanmar
The train finally approaches

Climbing the steep steps on to the train, I found a seat on the plastic bench in the last compartment of the train. Beside me were a retired couple from Australia who were spending the next 6 months travelling through South East Asia. Most of the other seats were taken up by the tourists as well. There were a few shy locals trying to find a place among the tourists, and there was a big mirrored cupboard travelling with us. We all wondered how they managed to put that thing in the train through the narrow doors.

Yangon circular railway, Myanmar
The cupboard

The train rolled off noisily. As it passed through the stations, more and more locals started filling in along with their wares. Most were returning from the markets with empty baskets. The locals use this cheap and convenient means to transport every imaginable good from and to the city. To cater to this vast customer base travelling in the heat are vendors selling a wide range of food and refreshments. Soon the whole compartment was buzzing with energy and chatter. People were sitting on the floor and in any available space. Vendors were making their way through them, settling down in an empty spot to sell their ware. It was an amazing place to people watch.

I was starting to get hungry by now. The reviews said I could buy food on the train. However, despite being tempted by the spicy concoctions being sold, I wasn't brave enough to try out any of them, that too at the very beginning of my travels. Of course the locals did not have any such inhibitions and the food vendors kept busy throughout the journey. My short supply of water was running out, but hearing the Australian couple complain about the authenticity of the seals on the bottle, I did not dare. They said, once the plastic cover was removed, the caps did not have any seals. Dubious bottled water is an issue in Myanmar. So hungry and thirsty, I managed to buy an apple from one of the vendors at 100 kyat.

Yangon circular railway, Myanmar
Continuous flow of food

Yangon circular railway, Myanmar
Perhaps the most spiciest concoction on the train. I had shared a video of her preparation, link at the end

She made multiple visits and the demand never went down

Yangon circular railway, Myanmar
Grapes for sale

Yangon circular railway, Myanmar
Some healthier option

The train kept trudging along through rural Yangon. The promised spectacular countryside scenes were yet to make their appearance. It was well over an hour and by now I had started to get suspicious of the duration of the journey. If what the woman at the tourist office had told me was true, we should have been on our return journey by now.

At one of the stations the train stopped and there was a sudden flurry of activities. Most of the tourists got off here as a substantial number of locals boarded the train. This was Danyingone known for its wet market which spills over by the railway tracks. People normally get off here and after visiting the market, take a taxi back to the city. Due to my lack of research, I was unaware of the details prior to this. The sun outside was uninviting for me and I was yet to see the spectacular scenery. Along with the Australian couple, I continued my journey to Hlawga. An hour and forty five minutes since leaving Yangon, we reached Hlawga. There was some confusion about the waiting time at the station, but eventually after a forty minutes wait, the train started rolling. We were back on our return journey. Hot, thirsty and hungry, I returned to Yangon at about 3:30pm.

So what was my take on the circular railway?

A few things which did not meet my expectations. First of all the duration. The full circuit takes three hours, compared to the over four hours that took me to do this incomplete circuit due to the repairs. We never ventured into the scenic part of the countryside, which was a big disappointment. I was travelling in November, yet the heat was stifling. There are no fans in the train. The food sold would be considered as street food, and definitely something a traveller should evaluate before indulging if not already seasoned with the local food. So carrying own food and water would be essential.

As for seeing the local life, true, this is perhaps the closest you can get to that, travelling with the locals and observing their life in close proximity.
However, I am an Indian who has grown up in the suburbs of Kolkata. My daily morning commute to work in the city used to be on the suburban trains. The early morning trains are loaded with fresh vegetables, fish and poultry from the villages which are to be sold in the local markets. I have spent many mornings trying to manoeuvre through a mayhem of humongous baskets, sacks and milk cans as I tried to board the trains, amidst fights and disagreements that broke out all around. Through the years, I even came to know some of these ladies personally during the chaotic journey. The flow of vendors through the crowded passages of the train compartments at all hours of the day, selling a variety of items from daily use knickknacks to cosmetics is incessant. And finally the multitude of tasty food which are known to be available only on the trains and are extremely popular with the locals. Here in India, I rarely let go a chance of sampling a few of them.
Therefore, definitely this is a life I have experienced before and hence did not shock me.

However, I should still accept, I quite enjoyed being a tourist this time. It was definitely much calmer than the hectic mornings I have experienced in my country. As I sat there watching, in turn I was being watched by curious eyes and greeted by friendly smiles every now and then.

Finally, if I would recommend it?
Probably to someone not experienced in the rural life of these parts of the world, yes. Most people in the subcontinent are quite used to experiences like this and probably won't appreciate the uniqueness of this train journey.

Sharing some more random photos from the journey and here is the Facebook video of the food preparation I had mentioned.
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Yangon circular railway, Myanmar
The locals transport their goods

Yangon circular railway, Myanmar
Place to mingle

Yangon circular railway, Myanmar
Portraits

Yangon circular railway, Myanmar
Amused at the antics of tourists. seeing a girl taking selfie with ice lollies

Yangon circular railway, Myanmar
Portraits

Yangon circular railway, Myanmar
A social place

Yangon circular railway, Myanmar
Hair accessory

Yangon circular railway, Myanmar
Waiting for the train to depart at Hlawga

Yangon circular railway, Myanmar
Waiting at Hlawga

Yangon circular railway, Myanmar
Hlawga station from the train

Yangon circular railway, Myanmar
Vendors at Hlawga

Yangon circular railway, Myanmar
A station on the circular line

Yangon circular railway, Myanmar
Packaging his wholesale market purchases for selling at local markets

Yangon circular railway, Myanmar
Innovative use of the rails

Yangon Railway station, Myanmar
Back to Yangon