Sunday 29 January 2017

Khajuraho

Once upon a time, in a kingdom far, far away there lived a beautiful queen. One night while she was bathing in the lake, the moon saw her and was smitten by her beauty. He managed to seduce the pretty princess which brought along a son for them. With the child born outside wedlock, the queen was banished from the kingdom and sent to live in the forest. When the son became the king, the queen instructed him to build temples with explicit images on them with the sole purpose of educating the people about inner desires and how to express them. The temples were built in the forests to keep them away from prying eyes. 

Thus runs one of the many versions of the legend of the Khajuraho temples.

Historically, the Khajuraho group of temples were built by the Chandela kings during the tenth and eleventh centuries over a span of hundred years. Once comprising of about 85 Hindu and Jain temples spread over 20kms, only about 20 of them remain, though new ones are still being excavated. The intricate carving on these temples have earned them entry into UNESCO World Heritage site. The temples are grouped into Eastern, Western and Southern complexes of which the Western complex have the most important and best maintained ones.

Leaving Chitrakoot in the morning and paying a brief visit to Kalinjar fort on the way, we reached Khajuraho at about one thirty in the afternoon. (You can read my posts on Mythological Chitrakoot and Kalinjar fort). The temple complex closes at sunset, which would be 5:20pm during this time of the year. It was December. After an unintended long lunch brought on by a very slow service, it was another hour before we finally entered the temple complex. Tickets were purchased at the gates and identification had to be provided for every member in the group. Children below fifteen go in free.

The Western group of temples comprises of five main temples and a few ancillary ones, spread out in the landscaped grounds. The artwork on Kandariya Mahadev temple, Lakshman temple, Chitragupt temple, Chausath Yogini temple and Vishwanath temples are indeed breathtaking. Even though I had always wanted to visit these temples and was very well familiar about their intricate artwork, nothing had prepared me for the impact when I actually saw them in flesh. Every inch of the temples is covered in carvings, starting from the stairs, pillars, walls taking to the roof and the outside. Taking a guide is definitely an option, but one can simply spend hours appreciating the skill of the artists who worked on them all those centuries ago.

What is surprising though is Khajuraho, which is known for its erotic sculptures, has only a small percentage of its carvings actually showing explicit figures in various poses of intimacy. Unlike common belief, most of the sculptures are actually a representation of daily life of the common people, warfare, women decking themselves up and images of various deities. Visitors are doubtful about children accompanying them, however there is no need for worry as it will be quite impossible for them to spot anything uncanny, but they would definitely be missing out on being introduced to some fine examples of Indian art and architecture if they do not visit.

A couple of hours is good enough to have a look around all the temples, though one can spend hours to see everything in more detail, to read the stories depicted through the carvings on the wall. And do expect a sore neck from all the craning you will do to appreciate the artwork in every nook and corner.

Sharing some photographs from my visit, a challenge selecting from the hundreds I took.

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Khajuraho

Saturday 14 January 2017

Kalinjar fort

As I walked past the weathered sculptures ravaged by time and war, depicting various deities from Hindu religion and mythology, I could not help but admire how majestic this fortress in Kalinjar had once been in its days of glory. Located on a hilltop of the Vindhyachal range, a number of dynasties including the Guptas during the 5-6 AD and Chandelas during 10 AD have ruled over this strategically located fortress of Bundelkhand. Its important position also meant it has been the target of attacks in the later years by the Mughals, Ibrahim Lodi and even the British. The actual time of the build is not known but it is speculated that the Bargujar kings built it during the 1st or 2nd centuries AD. 

The Bargujar kings took pride in their art and architecture which is evident in the magnificently intricate carvings on the remains of the Neelkanth temple. The temple supposedly towered seven stories during its initial days, now only a few pillars remain outside the small cave which houses the Shiva lingam. Water seeps through the rock, keeping its surface wet at all times. Speaking to the priest, the temple has been in constant use since the day it was built. The locals take the long stairs from the village outside the fortress for their everyday worship. For the tourist, the car park is above the temple and has steep stairs going down, which means they need to be climbed back too on return.

Leaving Chitrakoot (Here is  about the visit Mythological Chitrakoot), we were on our way to Khajuraho and my brother suggested we make a stop at Kalinjar. I am glad we did. With a short winter day and a number of places to visit, we did not have much time to be able to do justice to the place. Most of the fortress city is now destroyed, remnants of its majestic past lie scattered in a few old palaces and buildings as the undergrowth tries to take over. The Neelkanth temple area was all we visited, but it was good to sit for a while after the visit on the ramparts soaking in the winter sun.

Sharing some photographs from the visit.

Neelkanth temple Kalinjar
Entrance to Neelkanth temple

Neelkanth temple Kalinjar
Details of the artwork on the doorway

Neelkanth temple Kalinjar
Everyone loves the ramparts

Neelkanth temple Kalinjar
The third set of stairs finally leading down to Neelkanth temple

Neelkanth temple Kalinjar
Ganesha at the gates - the one the locals use. Stairs lead down to the village below

Neelkanth temple Kalinjar
Sculptures surrounding the area by the stairs we came down

Neelkanth temple Kalinjar
Sculptures on the pillars

Neelkanth temple Kalinjar
Sculptures on the pillars

Neelkanth temple Kalinjar
Intricate artwork on the pillars

Neelkanth temple Kalinjar
Neelkanth, probably about six feet high

Neelkanth temple Kalinjar
Not the most flattering pic, but to show the 14 feet Nataraj, Shiva in his ethereal dance form, in reference

Neelkanth temple Kalinjar
The temple from above. This is from where the water seeps out of the rock

Neelkanth temple Kalinjar
The temple with its priests

Neelkanth temple Kalinjar
More sculptures around

Neelkanth temple Kalinjar
Sculptures of deities, some still worshipped as preservation work goes on as evident from the numberings

Neelkanth temple Kalinjar
Looking down from the ramparts, Kalinjar fortress on a hilltop

Sunday 8 January 2017

Mythological Chitrakoot

Couple of years back we were planning a family holiday in Madhya Pradesh. While I was familiarising myself with the map of central India (has been a while since my geography lessons in school), noticed Chitrakoot sitting right at the border of Madhya Pradesh and Uttar Pradesh. The image that immediately flashed in my mind was a gushing river dropping dramatically over the cliffs, 'Perfect!' I thought. My excitement was short lived though, since I soon realised the waterfalls I was hoping to see is actually about 900 kms south, in the state of Chattisgarh.

The place I was looking at appears in Hindu mythology Ramayana as the abode of Lord Rama, the seventh incarnation of Lord Vishnu, where the young exiled prince of Ayodhya had spent more than eleven years in the forest. For reasons unknown to me, its namesake waterfalls is nowhere near it!

Chitrakoot however did not appear in that year's itinerary as we planned a different route through the forests of Satpura range and a visit to the famed marble rocks of Jabalpur (wrote a couple of posts on that trip but never finished, should probably write a synopsis of that trip sometime soon). However, smitten by the wonders of Madhya Pradesh, we planned a second trip to the heart of India and this time Chitrakoot was our first stop.

Travelling with family means a varied set of interests need to be catered for and it was for my parents that Chitrakoot was planned. For me, it is never disappointing to see a new place, especially one steeped with mythology and history. Probably could do with a spiritual encounter as well. India being such a vast country, just stepping into a different state brings about a big difference in geography and culture which is always enjoyable.

Our train to Chitrakoot Karvi train station was delayed by about three hours. We had booked the same driver we had on our last trip, Santosh, a happy-go-lucky guy with a big girth and an equally big laugh. He was driving in from Jabalpur, about 300 kms away. Unfortunately the vehicle he was bringing broke down halfway and he had to ask his friend to bring a replacement. The little hitch meant he was no where to be seen when we arrived and we had to wait another half an hour before he appeared with his big smile and the same purple Tavera we had seen last time.

By the time we reached our hotel, about 8kms from the train station and had our lunch, the misty winter afternoon was already waning. We were staying at Chitrakoot Tourist Bunglow, a good place to stay, comfortable rooms, good though expensive food with a slow service and free wifi. The river Mandakini, around which Chitrakoot has come up, is only a short walk from the hotel. Walking by the banks lined with colourful boats, we crossed the 'blink and you miss' narrow stream of Payaswini which merges into the Mandakini, and we had entered the neighbouring state of Uttar Pradesh! The shallow, almost non existent stream forms the boundary between the two states.

Ramghat, Chitrakoot
Misty Ramghat on the banks of Mandakini

Ramghat, Chitrakoot
Boats by the river banks
Ramghat, with its many temples was right in front of us. Fluorescent lights were switched on as dusk descended, dispersing their weak glows into the foggy evening. Though the locals will tell you this is where Lord Rama had built his hut during the exile period, it is actually the hill of Kamadgiri located only a short distance away that used to be the original Chitrakoot. Lord Rama, his wife Sita and brother Lakshmana used to come down to Ramghat for a dip in the river. Further up the river is Janki Kund where Sita used to bathe in the crystal clear waters of Mandakini (not so crystal clear in the present day) and the Sphatik Shila or crystal rock, where the royal couple used to rest in the calm and beautiful surroundings.

The colourful boats tied along the banks can be hired for a trip up and down the river for a view of all the ghats, albeit needing some ferocious bargaining. Legend says that this is here in Ramghat where Lord Rama later appeared to the 16th century poet and saint, Goswami Tulsidas, the author of Ramcharitmanas, tales of Lord Rama he wrote in Awadhi language.

Ramghat, Chitrakoot
Ramghat - evening descends

Ramghat, Chitrakoot
Steep stairs don't daunt everyone
Steep stairs from the ghat lead up to a number of ancient temples. For an easier ascent, the stairs leading to Goswami Tulsidas's cave has the least gradient. We stopped here as the priest narrated the story of Goswami Tulsidas's penance and the appearance of Rama before him. From here more stairs lead to Rama, Lakshmana and Bharat temples, where the priests also play the role of local guides. It is entirely up to ones discretion what they take away from these mythical stories, but is always an interesting listen. On the way back we took the dizzyingly steep stairs down, have to be very careful to not topple over.

Ramghat, Chitrakoot
Coming down needs care
A short evening Arati starts at 6:30pm on the banks of the Mandakini in Ramghat and a second one at 7:00pm in the opposite ghat. Unlike the more popular river Aratis across India, the place lacks the crowd and you can watch in peace, though it also lacks the grandeur of the more popular ones. It is also possible to watch the Arati from the river on the hired colourful boats should one choose to.

Ramghat, Chitrakoot
Lit up boats 

Ramghat, Chitrakoot
Evening Arati by Mandakini 

Evening river Arati

Ramghat, Chitrakoot
Evening Arati

Ramghat, Chitrakoot
Ramghat at night
A sleep deprived last night on train meant we were all in need for an early bed. But we needed food first and there is no better place than a roadside dhaba. Chitrakoot being a religious place does not serve non-vegetarian food. But the local vegetarian food served with freshly made roti is simply bliss. Be warned of the high level of spiciness of the foods though.

Chitrakoot dhaba
Roadside Dhaba

Chitrakoot dhaba
Roti preparation at dhaba
Next morning we drove the 3kms from the hotel to Kamadgiri, which translates to the hill where all desires come true. A tiled path runs at the base of the hill, encircling it for 6kms where devotees do the Parikrama or circumambulation (had to look that one up!). Hundreds of temples and ashrams line the path. If one was to visit them all, it would take days to finish the Parikrama. The main places to visit are the four gates of Kamadgiri opening in four directions and the Bharat temple, where Rama's brother Bharat had tried to convince him back to the kingdom, their footprints apparently embedded in the hard rocks.

It was a pleasant walk when we started in the morning, but the place started to get busy through the next hour. The next day was Amavasya or new moon, a popular day for the pilgrims and the place would be buzzing, our guide said. We had hired him for Rs100, was a good decision as it is very easy to miss the important ones in the maze of temples. He was pulling a wheelchair with him in case it was needed. We did need it, only to dump our bags and warm clothes which started coming off quickly. During end of December the temperature in Chitrakoot reaches mid twenties during the day, though with the mist feels much cooler. Night temperature drops down to around 9 degrees.

Kamadgiri, Chitrakoot
Monkeys keep you company and only expect food in retrun

Kamadgiri, Chitrakoot
Temples in Kamadgiri

Kamadgiri, Chitrakoot
Bharat temple, Kamadgiri

Kamadgiri, Chitrakoot
Bharat temple 

Kamadgiri, Chitrakoot
Colourful vermilion on sale

Kamadgiri, Chitrakoot
Temple and priests


Kamadgiri, Chitrakoot
Gateway to Lakhsman's hill where he stood keeping guard

Kamadgiri, Chitrakoot
The fourth gate of Kamadgiri
From Kamadgiri we drove 18kms out of town to Gupt Godavari. This was mostly on red dusty roads still waiting for tarmac. Gupt Godavari, or the hidden Godavari has two caves. The one on the top which has to be entered through a narrow crack on the rock face. Apparently Rama and Lakshmana used to hold court here. A few places of worship has been built on different levels in the caves with a sign of 'No photography allowed'. The air inside the cave was heavy and warm, a couple of big fans kept the circulation going. The narrow crack allows only one person at a time means there is a waiting time for traffic to stop from the other side.

From the upper cave, stairs lead down to the lower one from where the underground river emerges. The water level starts at ankle height and as the cave gets narrower the water level reaches almost up to the waist. It requires immense care as the rocks below can be sharp and slippery with sudden dips in the ground. Add to that an uncontrolled crowd. I decided to turn back as the claustrophobia got the better of me, however my parents went through and they did have a few moments of panic as the only way was forward as the channel looped back. There was no way to turn back in case of an emergency. It definitely would be a fascinating experience, when less crowded, and I wish I could go back again for the experience.

Gupt Godavari, Chitrakoot
Gupt Godavari start of the caves

Gupt Godavari, Chitrakoot
Walking through the underground river

Gupt Godavari, Chitrakoot
The low roof, only a kid could go below it without bowing down
Gupt Godavari, Chitrakoot
That's where I started panicking
After having lunch, a vegetarian thali at a roadside eatery, and refreshing in an open-air toilet, we headed back to town, stopping at the ashram of Sati Anusuya. The place is located at what is mentioned as the source of the Mandakini. According to mythology, Anusuya was the wife of Rishi Atri and known for her piousness. Knowing her story, it was quite obvious that she was a very capable and spirited woman, definitely worth a lot of respect. Here is a very spiritualised version of her story, see if it makes sense http://www.indianscriptures.com/gurus/rushi-women/sati-anasuya

Chitrakoot food
That's how a standard vegetarian thali looks like
Sati Anusuya, Chitrakoot
Sati Anusuya, source of Mandakini
The winter day was ending fast and we still had to visit Hanumandhara, another hilltop. This was back in the town, close to our hotel so got back in the car. According to legend, Hanuman, the biggest devotee of Lord Rama, having burned down Lanka with his lit up tail needed to cool down. Lord Rama shot his arrow in the rock from which a stream emerged. Hanuman washed in its cool waters and cured himself. Where the stream emerges from the rock face now has two temples in different levels, dedicated to Hanuman. About 400 steps lead to the first temple and another 200 to the upper temple. There are more stairs going to the top of the hill, but we were advised not to venture as seemingly some people were extorting money on religious grounds.

Hanumandhara, Chitrakoot
Hanumandhara, temples visible towards the top of the hills

Hanumandhara, Chitrakoot
The stairs to Hanumandhara

Hanumandhara, Chitrakoot
The first temple

Hanumandhara, Chitrakoot
Monkeys (Hanuman)

Hanumandhara, Chitrakoot
Nrisimha avatar at Hanumandhara
Hanumandhara, Chitrakoot
Way to the second temple

With that our day in Chitrakoot ended. The place has a pleasant feeling to it, and being not so popular on the tourist map, it has a certain laid back calmness to it. We had planned for a day and half for the visit but had lost half a day in delayed travel. It would have been nice to stay another day to visit all the ghats and the mishmash of ancient temples lining them. The purpose of a visit may be religious or just tourism, but am sure everyone will enjoy this sleepy town. Of course you have to look beyond the fallacies of an overtly religious society, their the blind faith in myths and legends and I am sure you will feel the energy and may even be lucky find a spiritual connection.

Here is some information about the epic Ramayana if you are interested in a read.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ramayana
http://ramayana.com/