A Pompeii weekend

"But if you close your eyes, does it almost feel like nothing changed at all?"

Forum - Pompeii

January 2016 - start of the year.
Life at work had barely returned to normal after the holidays. It had only been two weeks since my return from visiting Vienna, Bratislava and Prague over Christmas. I had a trip planned for Iceland later in the month too. With still a few days to use up on my Schengen visa before it expired, I needed a plan, and with back to back holidays, the plan had to be short. An extended weekend was all that I could afford, I figured. Decided my destination - Pompeii - a place I had always wanted to visit.

On this Saturday, five in the morning, I had already reached Edinburgh airport. I was flying in to Rome Ciampino as the Easyjet flights to Naples did not start until March. While sipping on my morning coffee, made the mandatory Facebook post.

"First travel of the year and a very short one. On the first stage ...a long day's travel ahead. Destination Pompeii."

Armed with Pompeii guide book - a must on a short trip

The flight landed on time and with only a hand luggage no further time was wasted at the carousel. As I came out of the terminal building at Ciampino, the long queues at the bus stop looked ominous. I walked back into the building to see if I could get the bus tickets, but Terravision, the main bus service to Termini had stopped taking reservations at their airport counter. There was a shortage of buses, was told, for whatever reason. As I waited at the queue, got lucky and found an empty seat on a fully booked bus service. Just a single empty seat - the charms of solo travel! 

The journey to Termini was a crawl through traffic. Once at the station, purchased the train tickets for the fast Frecciarossa service to Naples Garibaldi. I could have booked the train tickets in advance at a much cheaper rate, but being non refundable and non changeable, my delay at Ciampino would have cost me dearly. The two hours journey to Naples culminated with a majestic view of Mount Vesuvius looming over Naples bay.

Mount Vesuvius looking over Naples

My initial plan was to stay in Naples. But while talking about my upcoming trip with my gym instructor, who is an Italian, he strongly suggested I stay in Sorrento and actually advised to avoid Naples. "Pompeii is midway between the two places", he said, "so you won't be losing on time and Sorrento is a far better place to stay." So Sorrento it was for me.

The Circumvesuviana trains leave the lower level of Garibaldi about every thirty minutes. It's an hour long journey into Sorrento. Purchased my tickets and as the next train rolled in, I settled in. Through the window, I watched the train roll past the city. Train stations passed in quick succession, everyone of them covered in  dense graffiti, some even displaying sparks of true talent. The areas looked rough. The train wasn't very busy, yet on a couple of instances some questionable characters got uncomfortably close to my seat. I held on to my belongings, especially my purse, passport and camera. Thankfully, the situation and scenery started to improve as the train moved further away from Naples. I realised why my gym instructor had advised me against Naples.

Though my hotel was in Sorrento, I had to get off at the previous station of Sant' Agnello and then take the short walk. Had a moment of confusion when the increasing house numbers suddenly started going down. Eventually found the place as all I had to do was walk straight on. I was staying at Il Roseto, a beautiful little place and definitely comes recommended.

It was a cold and windy evening and Tony at the B&B warned me against going out. Hoping I had seen worse in Scotland, I went out for a walk, heading towards Sorrento. It was still Christmas here, complete with a beautiful Christmas tree at Piazza Tasso and a Christmas market.

Christmas in Piazza Tasso

Church of Carmine Piazza Tasso in Sorrento

Church of Carmine Piazza Tasso in Sorrento

It wasn't the tourist season and most places were closed. Places to eat were difficult to come by. Eventually found one. I was a very happy customer on Facebook that night

"Was hungry and walked into this random pizzeria just because saw tables laid out with a couple of people. This time of the year, all other restaurants were pretty much empty. Ordered the chef special pizza of the day - 'buffalo' mozzarella, speck and chestnut, and was blown away by the flavours. Looked up the place after I returned and this turned out to be selling the best pizza in town...not surprised :) - Sorrento, Italy — at Pizzeria da Franco."

Mozzarella, Speck and Chestnut pizza in Sorrento

It wasn't just Pompeii which bore the brunt of the Vesuvius about two thousand years ago. Ercolano or Herculaneum, a city far more prosperous was destroyed in the same eruption, but in a different manner. While Pompeii was covered in hot volcanic ashes when the top exploded, Herculaneum fell in the path of the lava as it flowed into the sea. And unlike Pompeii, the excavation in Herculaneum was far more systematic. Most importantly, the artefacts have stayed at site rather than ending up in Naples National Archaeological Museum. The nature of the destruction and the excavation has resulted in better preserved ruins in Herculaneum, albeit smaller. I was undecided which one to visit. Though separated by only a short distance, I won't have time for both in my short itinerary. Finally it was pure logic. I had always wanted to see Pompeii, so that's where I will be.

My initial plan was to spend the morning in Pompeii and then go up to Mount Vesuvius in the afternoon. It all changed when I met an Israeli couple at the B&B. They were heading for Vesuvius first and invited me to join them. I agreed. But I had to get the train tickets first and the ticket counter in Sant' Agnello was yet to open. Using my limited Italian figured out I had to get it from the bar across the road. But then they had run out of tickets to Pompeii Scavi, so instead purchased tickets for Naples which was expensive by a couple of Euros.

The decision to join the Israeli couple was sensible. I had earlier planned to avail the bus service between Pompeii and Vesuvius, which according to internet should have been quite regular. Apparently this service does not run during winter months and a taxi is the only option which leaves from beside the train station. Sharing and a little bargaining made the journey much cheaper at 25 Euros per head. Angelo, our driver was probably in his 70s and was very forceful about taking photographs at every place he stopped. There was no escaping.

Mount Vesuvius

The views from Vesuvius was breathtaking, Naples on the right, Sorrento and Capri to the left. It was a beautiful clear day. The Israeli couple I met had been trying to come up for the past two days, but found the crater closed due to bad weather. They said I was lucky. Though sunny, it was bitterly cold. I put on all my layers, yet felt as if my fingers would fall off. A final layer of my parka eventually helped, but by now I was resembling a badly packed tent. The climb was at a comfortable gradient for less than a kilometre. Standing at the edge of a crater where gas still spewed from the cracks and a strong smell of sulphur hung in the air, it was a constant reminder how active the volcano still was, biding its time to explode again. If it did it could destroy the massive city sprawling below. Considering the disaster it could be, Vesuvius is rated as the most dangerous volcano in the world. It is possible to walk halfway around the edge of the crater but by now clouds had moved in and it was snowing heavily.  We headed back.

Naples from Vesuvius

Sorrento and Capri from Vesuvius as the snow clouds start to move in

A dormant volcano, spewing gases 

Vesuvius

We needed coffee to warm us up after the freeze. Angelo gifted each of us a souvenir photograph of the Vesuvius. He seemed very pleased, especially with the couple. They had given in to all his requests to click. These people were indeed one of the best I have met on my journeys, kind, friendly, helpful with a great sense of humour. They invited me to be their house guest in Israel where they would be my personal guide. I was excited. Unfortunately, I lost their email address so the idea never took shape.

Coffee break outside Pompeii Scavi

Pompeii Scavi

Five minutes inside the ruins and I lost my bearing. Fortunately found a member of staff. I had some idea about the sites to visit from the guidebook I had got the week before - Pompeii: Guide to the Site. She marked these places on the map and also suggested the ones she thought were a must see. Most were in the Zones I, VI, VII, VIII and IX. I also wanted to visit the amphitheatre which was the furthest in Zone II. Her suggestions were extremely helpful as definitely a proper plan is needed to make the most of the visit in a short time. She also marked out the places she knew were closed for maintenance. I was on my way.

Pompeii was overwhelming. As I write this post I can still feel the same excitement as I felt all those months ago. It is the excitement of walking the same streets the inhabitants of this doomed town walked about two thousand years ago, where every moment of their life was frozen in time. Outside the tourist months, the rush was non-existent. The site closes at five in the evening. By half four, the last tour group had left and I was suddenly alone, standing at the forum with not a soul in sight. It is very difficult to explain how I felt, but walking through those empty stone streets, now completely quiet, I could almost feel the vibes of a two thousand years old town, a chill running down my spine. This is what I posted on my Facebook page that night.

"Apparently it is possible to see the main points of interests in Pompeii within 3-4 hours and even take a break in the middle. Either I was not doing the main sights or I had been really slow, which I wasn't. Spent four and half hours today, and I wish I had more. Realistically speaking, it begs for at least a day just for the main sites and then you could end up spending days visiting the ruins in detail if you wish to. 

For me, when I think Roman architecture, I think big, grand, extravagant...but then that's how the Romans lived in Rome, the posh guys living in what they reckoned as the centre of the universe. 
Pompeii, though not Rome, was an affluent port town, where a life less ordinary survived the everyday struggles of what life puts forward. A town inhabited by the commoners, the daily bread earner as well as the affluent, both the cogs of a well oiled economic machine. A town supporting the lives of its residents and the visitors to the port, the sailors travelling from far and wide. And all of that frozen in time by a volcanic eruption about 2000 years ago.

The benefits of off season travel is you get many of the places to yourself, easier to imagine how it might have been all those centuries ago. The downside is, in a place like Pompeii that requires regular maintenance and where new excavations are still on, this is the best time to close them to visitors. I am not complaining as I struggled with whatever there was to see. To help me with the place, I had purchased a guide book last week and had a quick skim through it. That was of immense help. Internet sites said the tickets come with a small guide book and sometimes you had to ask for it. This doesn't seem to be the case now. I asked and no guidebooks were provided. They do provide a map though and there were staff at all the main sites, eager to provide more information if anyone asked for it. A guide is not needed at all.

The guidebook also said, be ready to be overwhelmed, even if you think you know what to expect. That was so true, even for a place stripped down to its bare bones. Walking through the boulder streets it is so easy to be lost in the age, you surely can almost see and feel the 1st century Roman port life living all around you without much effort, such is the charm of the place.

An amazing, amazing place! — at Pompeii Scavi, Italia."

Sorrento

Though a few sites on my list were closed for maintenance, Pompeii had not disappointed me.

I would be starting for Naples around two in the afternoon, meant I had the whole morning. I thought of visiting Amalfi Coast. The first bus was around half eight in the morning. But the locals put me off with the warning that I could be stranded in case a strike happened.

Instead, spent the morning walking around Sorrento. And of course sampling some Sfogliatella.

My first solo trip - to the Queen of Adriatic - Part I

Thanks to my job, I do get opportunities to travel.
It was 2011. Even though I have been staying in a foreign land on my own for a few years, probably due to the social environment of my upbringing and very protective parents, it required quite a bit of effort on my part to break the shackles and actually go out on my own to 'see the world'.

Now staying in Scotland itself is a stupendous holiday in itself which I ensured I enjoyed to the full. The excitements of the Scottish outdoors are unending and I had been doing as much as I could on my own. However, I was now yearning to take up a little bit more challenge and visit Europe on my own as well. The place high on my list was Italy. I had been to Rome and Venice over three decades back with my parents and brother and the place had already cast its spell at that young age. I lived the places in the photographs. Moreover, I have always been gastronomically inclined which explains my eternal struggle with weight. There is so much satisfaction in having a local dish made from fresh ingredients and with traditional expertise. That I call is food for the soul. Food definitely is a decision maker in my travel planning, and when it comes to Italian food, it makes me grow weak at my knees, err tongue...should I say?

So, Italy it was going to be - as the first. I had bigger plans as my work required a long stay in Edinburgh and I intended to use it to the full. Thus started the planning.

The Preparation

Getting the Visa

How I wished a UK work permit would allow me to travel Europe, but unfortunately I could not persuade the EU. I needed a Schengen Visa and that too, if my plans were to work out, not one that would end with my trip. With waiting times for appointments running into weeks followed by a three weeks processing time and a £60 fee, it was difficult to do it very often. I would have liked one for a year if I were to believe a friend, but being realistic, I was hoping at least for 6 months. Sent an email to the Italian embassy and received a prompt response - the visa would be for the duration I would be planning my trip, at their discretion. So, if I needed a longer one, needed multiple bookings.

It was October, and I was planning my Venice trip in December during Christmas. Decided I will go to Rome in March, and so that was 3 months sorted. I was going to attach a covering letter requesting for a longer stay and was hoping it would be considered.

There wasn't much rush at the Italian Embassy and I got an appointment on the very next week. Fortunately, they have one in Edinburgh which reduced the hassles. 

Reached about 30 minutes before time and was ushered in on time. The lady went through my documents, then took a look at the covering letter - 'We do not give visa for 1 year, 6 months is maximum but in your case most likely it will be 3 months. We will see'. All my hopes dashed.

My passport was ready for collection in two days. They did not need the 3 weeks processing time after all, and my Visa was multiple entry, 15 days till end of March. I had planned a total of 10 days in Italy, and definitely could not waste the balance...but that is a different story. 

Preparing for the trip

This was my first solo travel and I was nervous. At what time I reached, where do I stay - these had never been so critical before. There were further hindrance - budget, solo travelling is not cheap and the most important - language barrier.  

So, first stop - Easyjet. There wasn't any direct flight to Venice, but I had the option of squeezing in Milan, travel to Venice by train and then fly back from Venice via Gatwick to Edinburgh. I zeroed-in on the plan. 

Next was looking for a place to stay within budget, easy access from airport and safe. I wasn't that worried about northern Italy, but Rome was definitely a concern, given my father had a very unpleasant experience when I visited as a kid and all the warnings on the web. I needed the bookings for Rome too for the Visa application. Dug into Tripadviser while looking for discounts at the same time. Finally, managed to find what I needed and I was all booked and planned for the trip.

21st December: Leave Edinburgh at 2pm, reach Milan Malpensa at 5:30pm. Take Malpensa express train to Bovisa, get a taxi and off to Hotel La Residenza

22nd December: Stay in Milan

23rd December: Take train to Venice. Stay at Hotel Paganelli

24th December: Sight-seeing and attend midnight mass at San Marco's

25th December: Stay in Venice

26th December: 4pm flight from Marco Polo, reach Gatwick at 5pm and Edinburgh at about 9pm

Once the transport and accommodation were sorted, I needed to address my other concern - language barrier. Maybe English would have helped, but at least this got me motivated to learn a new tongue. That I had a colleague at work to practice my theoretical knowledge was a big help. The practice went well for a month and I could just say a few sentences, could read a bit and not understand much of what was said. Definitely not enough, but the prospect of being on my own felt a little less scary. 

The Trip Begins

Milan - Day 1

Finally the day arrived and I was on my way to the Edinburgh airport. The flight reached on time and it was easy enough to find the train station at the airport. Boarded the Milan Express as was advised by the hotel. Unfortunately, no one informed me there is a fast train as well which does not stop at Bovisa! 

As I got off at Milan Central station at about 8pm, I realised that I was already in a mess. I needed help to get back on track and I was trying not to panic. It wasn't too far after all. I spotted some official looking people in a glass room but would need to go over the ticket barriers. My first experience of Italian helpfulness - the official asked me to board the train going to Lake Como and put me back on the platform through a back door, no ticket purchase required he said. Once on the train, had barely got my breath back when all of a sudden disgruntled passengers started rushing off the train on hearing an announcement on the PA system. I tried to ask around but did not manage to get any response, so just decided to push my luck. The train left soon and I counted the stations. Eventually it did stop at Bovisa, a quiet dark station with no one around. 

I now had to get to the hotel in a taxi. I was hoping to find one close to the station but it didn't look like a popular train stop or maybe it was either too late or too early. The streets were quite empty. I had been given two numbers to call. The first one I called up simply said 'No English' and hung up, so called up the next number hoping for better luck. A lady responded and luckily she could understand what I was saying. After waiting for another 10 minutes or so, finally a taxi arrived and I got a very expensive ride to my hotel. It wasn't at all close or I was simply taken for a ride.  

After this slightly nerve racking start, I was indeed glad to have reached the hotel. It was a nice place, a Green hotel, they said. My room was by the staircase, cosy and looked comfortable. Decided to have my food at the hotel restaurant and as I waited, was greeted by this marvellous chef, Roberto. All right, I did not yet know how good a chef he was, but he was a lovely gentleman, very courteous. I ordered spaghetti with chicken and mushrooms with the house red wine. My gastronomic tour of Italy had actually started. I have always been a fan of Italian food, but having the same in Italy was an altogether different experience, something worth the travel and the trouble. Its speciality is in its simplicity and I was relishing it. Roberto offered dessert. Reluctantly, I had to refuse and apologised. I was already on the verge of bursting. He said that he would make fish tagliatelle for me if I were to have my food there next night. I readily accepted. 

It was late and I was tired. The bed was comfortable. I was happy as I dozed off. Even with the hassles, I had managed to make it on my own. It was my first experience. I had made mistakes and there was still so much to learn. Five days ahead of me and so much to look forward to.

I ended up sleeping with a pillow over my head to keep off the sounds from the corridor and the streets, but was too tired anyway to notice. My holiday had started.

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My first solo trip - to the Queen of Adriatic - Part V

Buon Natale! It's Christmas!

It was again the chimes that woke me in the morning, this time, a number of them ringing in harmony. Maybe it's the water, the narrow lanes and the cobbled stones that make them reverberate so gracefully. The bells sound so different in Venice.

It was Christmas and a very sunny one as well.

It was a holiday in Venice and most places and shops were closed from the evening before. I had not properly visited San Marco church yet and was yet to go to Castello sestiere. The plan was to cover both, come back for lunch and then maybe go over to see the Tintoretto that I had to skip yesterday due to time constraints. Then I remembered the Scuola Grande di San Rocco was closed on Christmas day. I left the decision for the afternoon for later.

After breakfast, my first stop was San Marco. The tide had been in overnight or in the early hours and the Piazza was flooded. The stepping tables had been laid out. There weren't many people around and I peeked through the door. After seeing it dazzle the night before (My first solo trip - to the Queen of Adriatic - Part IV), the normal look was very gloomy. I decided, I had seen it at its best, so changed my plans and started walking towards Castello instead.

There are quite a few things to see in Castello and they were showing up on my map. I had to get a new one from the reception as the previous map Marco had given me was tattered beyond use, though I still needed it for the precious notes. For some reason I was not much inclined today to plan on a touristy route or visit churches even. The sun was out and it was very warm. I just wanted to keep walking and see what I felt like doing. It was another of those 'I won't go by the plan' day that I was suffering from. I watched the gulls shrieking in their flight and fed the sparrows. By the looks of it, it was starting off to be a lazy day.

I kept on walking by the sea, ignoring anything that looked the least touristy, till I encountered an archway. I was first not sure if I should enter the place, but then my curiosity got the better of me. It looked interesting after all. I am glad I went in. I had entered a very different world. The streets were empty and I could not imagine a place like this could exist in one of the world's most popular tourist destination. Not only was this a place isolated from the mad rush, topographically it looked different too. There weren't any canals criss crossing, the roads were wider and drier. Even the houses looked very different, maybe because they had not crumbled in the damp and were not covered in moss.

The place was very residential. There wasn't another tourist around apart from me. An elderly gentleman approached, pointed at my camera and jokingly asked if I was a tourist or a local? He didn't speak much English. He asked where I was from. When I said I was from India, he invited me to have coffee with him later. He smiled, wished me a good day and left. 'Buon Natale' I said. I had tried my best to communicate with him and was surprised that my Italian was good enough to do that - or may be not. As he left I realised I had no idea where or when I was invited for that coffee!

I walked around the neighbourhood. Clothes were let out to dry and were hanging picturesquely all around. They were laid out like decorations. The colours reflected on the walls as they fluttered in the light breeze. Funnily enough, I couldn't stop myself from taking innumerable pictures of washing let out to dry!

As I walked past the narrow lanes, I could hear people talking in their homes, children playing, screaming, shouting and laughing, the sound and smells of cooking, a few people were carrying bag full of groceries, there were ladies chatting by doorways, an elderly lady was sweeping the lane outside her door as the pigeons flew around her. I was suddenly very home-sick.

Castello developed from a naval base and the evidence was everywhere I went around. The Arsenale was built around the 11th century and used to be world's largest shipyard. It has the reputation of the earliest users of the assembly lines. Rumour has it that they could turn out a galley from start to finish in a single day. I went past the front and walked around the place. I was still not at all in a mood to do anything more than that. Wandering around, clicking along, I went past the gardens and ended up in the same place a couple of times. I realised I was going in circles so decided it was time to return.

It was already noon and I remembered I still had to see Roberto's friend, so wandered back to San Zaccaria. Today I decided to to take a longer route to the Rialto. On way watched the gondoliers doing brisk business. They were in their flirting best. It was very amusing as they offered free rides in return of special favours, even bargaining on the extent of favours to be bestowed.

Rialto on Christmas day was a very different sight. The place was bursting with energy. I had not seen this many people in Venice in the past couple of days. People were literally queuing up to get their clicks on the bridge.

This time, I did manage to find the shop. Unfortunately Roberto's friend was sick and was at home so I spoke to the assistant, and she said she would pass the message. I had my lunch at the Self Service again, this time the girl at the counter suggested I tried out the Lasagne. It was quite nice actually.

The sun was glorious and I wandered around the Rialto and San Polo.

I don't know whether it was the late night, or the pangs of home-sickness earlier in the day or the impending end to my visit, I was feeling rather melancholy. I found a quiet corner away from the restaurants and the tourists on the Grand Canal and sat there. The light was nice and I was taking pictures, maybe the same picture I had clicked hundreds of times before, but was so good to see the busy holiday life rush around me.

I knew I had to leave soon as I was to get ready for the concert, but felt very lazy to move on. As I sat there on my own, a gondolier kept on persuading me to take a ride. I definitely did not have the 120 Euros to spare. The price went lower, the bigger ride for the price of the shorter one - no, I can't spend 80 Euros either. Then it was a temptation to photograph the Rialto bridge in the setting sun and also a look at Casanova's house. No, am still not interested. Giving up, he brings along his fellow gondolier and introduces him to me as Daniel. He explains him in detail how much he has offered and then asks him to take me out instead. The new guy, who definitely had very cute looks, decides to bring down the price further. 30 Euros he said for the last ride of the day after which he will take me out for coffee. All I needed to do was wait an hour or so. I had been amused through the day by the antics of the gondoliers but this one actually took me by surprise. I definitely could not accept that, definitely not at that impossible price. They seemed to be genuinely disappointed as I laughed away his incredulous offer. As I was chatting to Marco later about my day, he tried to prevail on me that I should have taken it. That sort price is never offered he said. I was not convinced, and that was just because of the price! I did feel a slight repentance though.

The sun was about to set and the place was painted in a golden hue. As the short winter day was ending, I bid the disappointed gondolier couple goodbye and returned back to the hotel to get ready for my evening.

As we chatted about my day while I went to collect my keys, Marco asked if I would like to visit the terrace of the Paganelli main building. He said it offers a magnificent view and guests are served drinks there during the summer. I readily accepted. I was not disappointed. Venice opened up in front of me in the beautiful setting sun.

At least I knew where to have my food tonight. Marco had asked if I like fish to which I responded it depended on how delicate or strong the flavour was. He suggested me to try a typical Venetian food - Seppie in Nero - Cuttlefish cooked in its black ink and served with spaghetti or polenta. According to him, it looked totally black but tasted awesome. I was hooked.

The restaurant was close to the same place he had suggested for lunch, near the Santa Maria Formosa - the name, unfortunately I do not remember. So there I was in the evening, ready for my culinary adventure. This time, fortunately, I found my way.

I ordered my food with a red wine. At least I could wash it down if it got too difficult. The food arrived soon. I was not carrying my camera, but this is a picture from the web. I found a few images which had attempted to spruce up the look of the dish, with a sprig of parsley or shreds of carrot laid beside it. But to tell the truth, it is very difficult to make this food look any better. This is genuinely how it looked.

Once I recovered from the visual shock, I tentatively moved the stuff around with my fork for a bit to gather the courage for the first taste. It didn't have a strong smell, so that was something positive to start on. Eventually made up my mind and decided to give it a go. I was expecting a strong fishy smell, but was pleasantly surprised. There was a faint flavour of sea-food but the sauce was very rich and had flavours packed in. As Marco had put it, it looked awful but indeed tasted awesome. I do agree it was better if I ate with eyes closed. The portion was huge and I managed to finish almost the whole of it. Felt very guilty about the state I left the white napkin in, but it was not my fault!

I had to walk back to the other end of San Marco for the concert and it did good to my overeating. The evening at San Vidal was mesmerising. The church was providing the perfect acoustics for Vivaldi's Four Seasons. There were about fifty people in the audience and all seat were taken. The concert ended with a standing ovation from the audience.

The program finished at about 10 pm and despite my nervousness, I had an uneventful walk back to the hotel, means, I did not get lost. I was enjoying the quietness of the streets and the cold winter air and decided not to return to my hotel room yet. I was leaving Venice the next day and was already saddened by the thought of it. It was late but I was by the canal experiencing the night. The gondolas were gracefully bobbing in the waves, as if being swayed to sleep after a hard day at work. I walked by the San Marco basin and then sat on the steps. My last night in Venice, I wanted to spend a few moments with her before I went to bed.

The final day

I woke up early for the sunrise. I sat by the water and saw the darkness gradually dissolving in the orange till Venice was covered in a golden glow. The Bridge of Sigh was photographed again.

It was my last day in Venice. My first solo trip starting of with mini disasters had developed into the most wonderful experience I have had. See the stories unfold in four parts:
My first solo trip - to the Queen of Adriatic - Part I
My first solo trip - to the Queen of Adriatic - Part II
My first solo trip - to the Queen of Adriatic - Part III
My first solo trip - to the Queen of Adriatic - Part IV
It was soon to end in a few hours.

It was an early start for me today. My flight was at 4pm from Marco Polo and I had to get the vaporetto by noon. There were a few places I still intended to visit before I left. However, I had decided not to carry my camera with me today. I was not feeling like watching the world through the lens and whatever remaining few hours I had, it was to be relished without disruption. Moreover, the light was too difficult to photograph as there would be too much shade in these early hours, which also meant I would be delayed waiting for the light and that perfect picture.

By now I was starting to have a feel of how to get around Venice without getting lost. The places were starting to get familiar and I could actually cover the distances within designated time if not earlier. I had even started to gain confidence to try alternative routes.

As I had not been to the other islands, I had not seen the opposite side of the San Marco basin yet, though the airport ferry-bus would take me through those waters only. I planned to visit the northern part of Castello and a few churches on the way.

My first stop was the Santa Maria dei Miracoli. It had been recommended as being the best example of early Venetian architecture. The church facade was beautiful but the interiors were far more fascinating. The place was covered in marbles, white and coloured ones with intricate artwork. I am no expert, but the place looked magnificently different from the other churches I have visited. I was missing my camera. I walked around the church for some more time to take all in.

The next church was the Santi Giovanni and Paolo basilica, one of the largest in Venice. It indeed was one huge place. The church was the traditional burial place for Venice's doges and also of Giovanni Bellini amongst other renowned personalities. It took me much longer here than I thought as I was transfixed in the Rosary Chapel. For the second time I was repenting not bringing my camera. Though I think that is the reason I remember these places so well. I was filling myself in with the beautiful sights as if to compensate for my camera.

Leaving the basilica, I walked around the majestic Campo which also hosted the hospital - being in Venice, not surprisingly, this was an architectural beauty as well. I then trotted over to the sea side. I was surprised to see snow covered range on the mainland in the distance - I think they were the Dolomites. I was missing my camera for the third time. I stayed and watched a very different world from the San Marco Basin go past in those early hours. I decided then and there, going out without a camera is the most stupid thing to do and from next time onwards, I should be less emotional and more practical. Rather than deprivation, I need to practice restrain! Fir the time being, I consoled myself saying I would have been further delayed if I had it with me.

After some more hovering around and resisting my temptation to walk over to the Arsenale, it was now time to return. I decided to come through Piazza San Marco before going back to the hotel for checking-out. The Piazza was very busy and for the first time in the past three days, I found a queue at the gates of the church. the chock-a-block tourist season had arrived.

Marco was finishing off his shift when I went to say him goodbye. We exchanged email ids and he asked me to send him my photographs of Venice. He offered me to take me around Venice the next time I visit, to some interesting non-touristy places. I was supposed to teach him photography in return. The last time we spoke, the offer was still valid.

The ferry-bus raced through the sea, stopping at Lido and Murano. It took an hour and a quarter to reach the airport on the main land. As I was back on firm ground and walking towards the terminal, I heard a very familiar sound approaching - a car! I realised how much I had got used to the calmness of a traffic free life in the past three days. I had already started to miss the place and was longing to return even before the flight had departed. I know I didn't see much of Venice, even less than what people can fit in a couple of days of their trip. But I was satisfied I had seen enough to want me to come back again. Of course I was hit hard by the romanticism the place has to offer. The music of the church bells would stay with me for a long time after I had left. In addition, the Venice I had seen was beyond its tourist spots and museums. The ubiquitous churches round every corner do not advertise themselves to the tourists, but they have a grandeur that can only be felt. In the tourist humdrum, there also revolves a normal life, a life of the common people. As I walked aimlessly in the streets, I could feel the different character each of the sestieres had to offer. From the first sensation of panic on losing myself in the innumerable alleys of Venice, I had learnt to start enjoying the experience instead - the reward - finding another hidden jewel in my unplanned destination. And finally, the friendliness of its people, their warmth and passion - that is something I will treasure forever.

Next time I visit, I will definitely be a tourist. And definitely try to find out Daniel and ask for the 30 Euro ride - inflation considered!

Trip Digest

Travelling from Milan, I purchased the tickets from the Milan Central station the day before. It is also possible to buy the tickets online from the Trenitalia website: http://www.trenitalia.com/ The website is also available in English.

I stayed at the Hotel Paganelli which is a few steps away from San Zaccaria vaperetto stop. The airport ferry-bus also goes from here. Hotel website: http://www.hotelpaganelli.com/

From San Lucia, the ferry-bus or the vaperetto leaves for San Zaccaria. Tickets are to be purchased prior to boarding. Venice day passes are available as well if someone decides to go round on the water rather than walk.

I have been told that Gondola rides are far more expensive on the Grand Canal than on the smaller canals criss-crossing the city. Do not forget to bargain.

Venice may be seen in a day or even one month may not be enough. What needs to be seen is a personal choice. There is a lot of information on the internet available. It is good to go through them prior to travel and then decide what one wants to do.

Goitaly on about.com is definitely helpful: http://goitaly.about.com/

I also found the following sites quite useful:
http://aloverofvenice.com/
http://www.churchesofvenice.co.uk/

The major churches and museums have their own websites which will have the detailed information.

Photography is not allowed in most churches even though the rule is not strictly enforced. However, if someone asks to turn it off, it is better to. Flashes are not allowed.

The only museum I visited was the Accademia and they do not allow backpacks. They have to be left at the reception for a small charge.

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