Friday, 10 January 2020

"Mingalaba" Myanmar - Part IV | Lake Inle Day 1

The bus ride with J J Express was comfortable. I had caught more sleep than I had anticipated, thanks to their comfortable seating. There was a night halt around 9pm and one more later in the night. Just before 6am, an announcement was made informing us of our arrival at Nyaung Shwe and advising us to prepare the 15,000 kyat required as entrance fee to the Lake Inle region. The money goes in the development of the area and its inhabitants. Some non official looking locals boarded the bus and made the collection.

"Mingalaba" Myanmar - Part I | The Arrival
"Mingalaba" Myanmar - Part II | Yangon Day 1
"Mingalaba" Myanmar - Part III | Yangon Day 2

I was still not sure how far my hotel was from the final stop of the bus. As I had mentioned on my first post about the planning "Mingalaba" Myanmar - Part I | The Arrival, it was very difficult to come by information about travelling in Myanmar. I had tried enquiring with the bus company, but the language barrier did not help. However, they did assure me that they would arrange my onward travel if required. Thankfully, Google map showed it as a short walk.

Lake Inle is a large body of fresh water in the Shan hills, in the central part of Myanmar. Situated at a height of 900 metres and covering an area of 120 square kms, it is one of the highest and the second largest lake in Myanmar. Nyaung Shwe is a major township in the area located to the north of Lake Inle and connected by a river to this massive water body. Along with the other ethnicities, the area is mainly populated by the Intha people. The livelihood of the inhabitants is totally dependent on the lake. They live in stilt houses, have floating farms and fish in its waters. Transport is by long, narrow motorised boats that crisscross the lake and the rivers and canals which are home to the many small villages in the area. There is a tarmac road that circles around the lake, connecting the villages and towns over land.

Tourist accommodations at Lake Inle are available in the overland villages as well as on the lake itself. While staying on the lake would definitely count as a unique experience, mobility is completely dependent on the boat service. As we were getting off the bus, a group of boatmen had gathered to offer transport for anyone with accommodation on the lake, as well as to take bookings for boat cruise on the lake. I had decided to book my cruise through the hotel the next day.

I was staying at Mother's Home hotel, and the locals showed me the way even without my request for help. The neighbourhood was still waking up this early morning. I passed a group of monks dressed in maroon robes carrying their bowls, collecting their daily alms. I spotted my hotel and was walking towards it when I saw a group of young girls dressed in pink outfit queuing up outside homes. They waited for their turn as the lady of the house poured the offerings in their wooden bowls. My camera was still packed securely in my backpack. However their furtive glances made me feel that these young girls were reluctant to be clicked. They are probably fed up of tourists shoving their cameras in their faces. I watched them for a while, completely at awe at their display of discipline as each stood for their turn patiently and respectfully.

I was met by smiling staff at the hotel. They were a truly friendly bunch as I came to know through my stay. I checked into my room which was far more comfortable than my tiny space in Yangon. After a massive breakfast, brought along largely due to miscommunication with the kitchen staff, it was time for me to explore. I rented a cycle from the hotel for the day at 3000 kyat. The plan was to take the road on the west of the lake, cross it on the boat, then cycle back by the east coast, taking in a few sights on the way. The total ride distance was of 25kms and I expected it to be a leisurely day. However, what I did not consider was the heat.



I started at around 9am. The sun was already beating down, but at least being at a higher altitude, the air was cool. I stopped at every opportune moment to take photos of the landscape, only to realise the sun's angle wasn't the most flattering. Yet that did not dissuade me.





The first couple of kms by the river was on narrow, broken roads with intermittent heavy vehicles passing by. As the road ahead started climbing up, I realised for the first time that the bike gears were disconnected. It was an uphill slog for a while before I gave up and walked the cycle. The next five kms or so though not as bad, remained undulated. But at least the road was well tarmacked and almost no traffic. I had not cycled in about four years, and with the added heat, I was struggling. Thankfully the road went downhill after this and I gleefully let gravity take over, even whizzing past the hot springs I had planned to stop by. I realised my mistake only when I spotted the village of Khaung Daing. It was too hot and too tiring to cycle back uphill. Later I checked the photos of the hot springs and they did not impress me, therefore nothing lost.

Surprisingly, even though the road goes by the lake, there are not much views of it. As I approached the village of Khaung Daing, a young boy standing by the roadside asked me if I needed a boat, which I did. He quoted a price of 10,000 kyat. After some bargaining, I could get it down to 8000 kyat. Though I had been told that 5000 to 6000 kyat would be the normal price. At that point, I could just think of food and shade and a lot of water.

The thirty minutes ride on the boat took me to the east side of the lake to Maing Thouk village. The long boats sit very low and the young boatman cut his way through massive chunks of water hyacinth, even stopping a couple of times to untangle them from the propellers. We were going past stilt houses and floating farms. Every time another boat passed, ours rocked precariously. There were fishermen out and about on the lake. It was definitely a different perspective from the water.







The village of Maing Thouk spreads over from the land on to the lake, with a long teak wood bridge connecting the stilt houses on water. Even before I got off the boat I had spotted a restaurant  on the bridge. An old man was sitting under a shed and observing me quietly. As I caught his eye he signalled me to go and eat there. We did not have a common language, but it wasn't difficult to understand. I kept my cycle in the shed and walked in.



The restaurant was in one of the stilt houses and the visit gave me an opportunity to closely look at one. Made of teak wood, this was a two storey building with a balcony and two large rooms on each floor. Furnishing was minimal, and sleeping arrangements as I figured was on the floor. The bedding was rolled up by the wooden wall. The bathroom was a separate stilt house connected by a wobbly teak board. They were sparkly clean, but the toilets seemed to empty straight into the lake. There has been a growing concern with increasing tourism as more accommodations are being built on the lake without proper waste management. The kitchen was a tiny room in the lower floor and the eating area was on the second floor balcony with a grand view of the lake and the bridge.




Rather than looking at the menu, I asked the girl taking my order what she recommended. Her immediate reply was the grilled fish. That's our most popular dish she said. The fish came with rice and the sauce served with it blew my mind. I ordered a young coconut and they probably brought along the biggest one they had. It was massive and I sipped on it for literally hours. The fish had cost me only 1500 kyat. It was the cheapest meal I ever had in Myanmar, but definitely the best. The carp being served is a local fish of the lake, available nowhere else. Unfortunately it is now struggling against invasive species and is on the endangered list. I later visited the kitchen and saw them grilling the fish on wood fire. That would explain the awesome flavours.

I lingered over my meal, waiting for the hottest part of the day to pass. There were enough tables to serve guests and I was not bothered by anyone. It was about three when I decided to continue on my ride.


I was now cycling back towards Nyaung Shwe, on the east coast of the lake, again stopping a few times for photos. My next stop, Red Mountain vineyard and winery.






Myanmar has only two vineyards and both of them are in the vicinity of Lake Inle. While visiting a vineyard and tasting the wine does sound tempting, I was more interested in the views. Reviews said that this is the best place to watch sunset in Inle. The road to the winery rose sharply from the main road and it was impossible to cycle up. Actually, on my way back it was difficult to cycle down either as I did not trust the brakes of the bike. It was still a couple of hours to the sunset, so after gulping down two glasses of chilled water, I ordered a glass of their late harvest wine and waited. The sun started going down with much promise, the rays streaking from the surrounding clouds. However, it fizzled out when it mattered, the cloud playing a spoilsport. I cycled back to Nyaung Shwe, passing a few impressive looking pagodas. It was too dark, and I was too tired to click.





Back at the hotel, the owner greeted me. She was a young, dynamic, confident woman with a very warm personality. She confirmed she will book the boat for next day's sunrise visit to the lake. After drinking a few bottles of water and indulging in a refreshing shower, I was ready to venture out for food. Nyaung Shwe has its own night market which wasn't too far from my hotel.  However, the food did not impress me. I looked up a few other places on the map but my legs were reluctant to comply. I spotted a busy Indian restaurant named Inlay Hut and I walked in. The guy running the place was indeed a character, and his wi-fi password said a lot about him. Despite the place being busy and almost refusing me entry, he still got me seated and then started serving me complimentary food. Knowing I was an Indian, he talked about his love for India and hoped I would appreciate the food. One of his parents was Nepalese and the other a western national which I can't recall now. But he definitely was a character to be remembered. The food was all right.


I needed a good night's sleep especially after spending the previous night on the bus. I would be picked up at 5am for the boat trip, one of the many early starts in the days to come.

For more about the Myanmar visit and much more, visit my page on Facebook: Breaking out Solo
My Facebook post from the day.

Friday, 3 January 2020

"Mingalaba" Myanmar - Part III | Yangon Day 2

After much deliberation regarding the availability of a taxi at that early hour and my reluctance to leave the bed, I dropped the plan of visiting Shwedagon pagoda for sunrise. It was still to be an early start as I was leaving for Nyaung Shwe in the evening and due to the traffic scenario, I was advised to leave for the bus station early. I had to make the most out of my day.
"Mingalaba" Myanmar - Part I | The Arrival
"Mingalaba" Myanmar - Part II | Yangon Day 1

At 7am I was at the breakfast table. Today it was a standard breakfast of toast and butter much to my disappointment. As I was finishing my coffee I was joined at the table by John, a traveller from UK who has been living in the Middle East and frequently travels to South East Asia. He was travelling down Myanmar and had arrived from Mandalay a couple of nights earlier. Turned out, he was on the previous train to mine yesterday, riding the Yangon Circular Railway. He was heading to Shwedagon as well after breakfast.

I hailed down one of the passing taxis. It was a short ride. As the taxi was still approaching the southern gate, the 100m tall gold plated pagoda was towering in front of me, its gold gleaming in the sun. Located on a small hill, the pagoda is visible from a fair distance around Yangon.

Shwedagon pagoda
First view of Shwedagon pagoda
Shwedagon pagoda

International visitors have to pay a fee of 10,000 kyat to enter the pagoda. Shoes are to be left behind like all places for which a wet tissue is also handed over with the receipt, along with a bottle of water. There are four entrances to the pagoda, from where sets of stairs lead up to the hill. However I was led to the elevator as soon as I entered, which made it an easy ascent. I stepped into a world of splendour and spirituality. While Shwegadon is considered as the most sacred Buddhist pagoda in Myanmar, it is also a display of opulence and grandeur. The plinth of the pagoda is formed of gold plated bricks as gold leaves plate the exteriors. The pagoda is embellished with thousands of diamonds and rubies and is topped by a 76 carat diamond adorning the crown.

Shwedagon pagoda
Shwedagon glittering in the sun
Soon after I had entered and was orienting myself with the map, I bumped into John. He was now wearing a longyi which he rented at the gates. The dress code in the pagoda is strict for both men and women and he was not allowed in shorts. After some banter, his first question to me was, what did I feel about the pagoda, especially pointing to its display of wealth. He was unable to appreciate how a place built in remembrance of someone who abandoned all his earthly pleasures could be built on such riches. It was true. I felt the place had an uncanny resemblance to the Grand Palace in Bangkok, a seat of royalty and luxury. However, I also felt that it was the grandness of the place that instilled a sense of pride among its devotees. But finally, it was a good place for taking photos, I joked, which I did for the next couple of hours.

Shwedagon pagoda
South entrance Bodhi tree

Shwedagon pagoda
Temples around the pagoda
Shwedagon pagoda
Lying Buddha in one of the temples

Shwedagon pagoda
Students at the pagoda

Shwedagon pagoda
A devotee does a circumambulation at the pagoda

Shwedagon pagoda
Buddha statues 

Shwedagon pagoda
Nuns at the pagoda

Shwedagon pagoda
The sun was bright, so had to be innovative

Shwedagon pagoda
Visitors against a gold background

Shwedagon pagoda
Peace amidst the chaos. I was amazed by his concentration.

Shwedagon pagoda
Its a picturesque place
It was about ten when I left the pagoda. The sun was already scorching. I found a taxi right at the gates and asked him to drop me at the Bogyoke Aung San market. The traffic was slow and I felt I could be quicker walking. The taxi driver spoke exceptionally good English and was telling me how the roads in Yangon were so inadequate for the traffic that plied. There are not enough flyovers he complained. He also filled me in about the market I was visiting. Named after Major General Aung San, the father of Aung San Suu Kyi, the market is a treasure trove of souvenirs, both cheap and expensive. Even if one is not on a shopping spree, it is a fascinating place to visit, just to see the variety of items on sale.

Bogyoke Aung San market

As I got off the taxi and was getting my bearing, I bumped into John again. After seeing him in the longyi earlier, he looked different in his shorts. By now he was convinced that I was stalking him. He had made some purchases for home and was on his way back to the hotel for a shower. It was half ten and the heat was stifling. I strolled through the market looking at the items on sale, local handicrafts of wood carvings, wooden dolls, amber and jades, traditional clothing, bamboo items and many more. I bought a couple of jade items from a shop which seemed reasonably priced and I didn't have to haggle thankfully. The place was massive and it was all I could do in my short visit.

Bogyoke Aung San market
The market
Bogyoke Aung San market
Amber jewellery

Bogyoke Aung San market
Wooden masks

Bogyoke Aung San market
Souvenirs in the market 

Bogyoke Aung San market
Wood carvings of Chinese and Hindu figures

Bogyoke Aung San market
Walking through the market. The woman in the centre turned away from my camera much to the amusement of her friends

Bogyoke Aung San market
Accessories on sale in every shop

Bogyoke Aung San market
Wooden dolls

Bogyoke Aung San market
Monks made of wood

Bogyoke Aung San market
Wooden dolls
On my way back to the hotel, I stopped for lunch at the 999 Shan Noodle shop again, this time trying a different dish from yesterday. The owner chatted and joked, it is such a relaxing place to be.

Fried noodles at Shan 999 noodle shop

Back at the hotel I rested a bit, then packed, showered and freshened up. My next destination was Nyaung Shwe, by Lake Inle. I was taking the overnight bus with Joyous Journey Express, or simply put, J J Express who are highly recommended on all travel sites for their safety. Myanmar roads aren't the best, hence for a comfortable ride, the company needs to be evaluated as all buses aren't the same. I had booked a seat online and despite paying a transaction fee, at USD19.76, it was a few dollars cheaper than the price quoted by my hotel. The bus would be leaving from Aung Mingalar bus station. Located on the highway close to the airport, this is where all buses to northern Myanmar leave from. My bus was at 6pm, but I was warned about the traffic. So despite being a 45 mins journey, I was advised to leave early. I couldn't thank my landlady enough for all her help during my stay. She is a wonderful lady and definitely the reason the tiny hotel is rated so highly by every visitor. She hugged me and after reminding me again to be careful on my solo travel, bid me farewell. By 2pm, I was on my way.

With the lady of the house
A mini bus shuttle service runs between Sule and Aung Mingalar bus station which costs about 5000 kyat, while a taxi service costs around 10,000 kyat. However, I had decided to take the local bus service, the number 36 which leaves from near the City Hall. All signage and notifications are in Burmese, apart from the number, so had to take the help of the locals. As a bus approached and a large crowd rushed to board it, one of the guys I was talking to earlier signalled me not to board the bus. All he said was 'not going' and I managed to figure out through his hand signals and broken English that I had to take the next one.

Another 15 mins wait and I saw a number 36 approaching and like clockwork a massive crowd appeared and rushed to board. There was no queue and it was a miracle I managed to even board with my backpack. Deposited 200 kyat in the box as I was passing the driver, a very young boy barely looking like he had reached the age eligible for driving. I asked 'Aung Mingalar' and he nodded his head. The bus was very crowded and needless to say, I wasn't fast enough to get a seat. Though after a while, despite my vehement refusal, a young boy travelling with his very young and giggling girlfriend gave up his seat to me. The traffic wasn't too bad this time of the day and I reached in about an hour.

The bus station was right on the highway and busy with vehicles and activities. It was chaotic. This was my experience as I posted on my page while seated at the waiting room of J J Express.



I stopped for a light meal at the local KFC. Dining at one of these multinational franchises in each country is quite a fascinating experience. The menu can be quite interesting, and the flavours different. I was somewhat disappointed though with the presentation as the display showed the meal served in bamboo baskets and banana leaves, but my chicken and rice was laid out on a white paper lining a red tray and a plastic basket.

KFC served with a very Asian flavoured lime sauce and rice
Amidst all the chaos, everyone boarded the bus at 5:30pm. It was mostly tourists by the looks of it.  By then, loud music blaring on the loudspeakers had added to the pandemonium. However, once in the bus, it was a different story. I had booked the first class bus, which had seats arranged in 1x2 configuration. There is a hostess service and we were provided with a snack box too. The seats were plush, reclining almost all the way back and with foot rests.
I had not anticipated sleeping on the bus at all, but now it felt doable and I was looking forward to the journey. It was 12 hours to Nyaung Shwe.

J J Express bus, clicked in the darkness during the night halt
Yangon had been fascinating.
While it's true I had been overwhelmed by the city on arrival, I had also gradually warmed up to its chaos and had started to appreciate the spirit of this old city.

For more photos from my Yangon visit, take a look at my page on Facebook: Breaking out Solo

Signage in the toilet somewhere in Yangon