Tarbert view |
An adventure in green traveling
It was not a very sane idea, I was already realising that as I checked the timetables for the final time before going to bed on Friday night. But I had the inkling it would be fun, definitely much more fun than sitting on the bus for five hours. Moreover the weather forecast was fabulous for the weekend. At least I won't be soaked or blown away or be inches from hypothermia in case I missed a connection and was stranded in normal Scottish weather.
I was (and am) still recovering from my week and half 'holiday' (another trip added to my post backlogs, perhaps sometime in the next few months will it see the light of the day) and all I wanted to do was rest. There was no weekend plans, that is until Friday afternoon when I looked at the forecast with disbelief - how often do we see the sun out in Scotland on a weekend? A quick planning and decision made - visit the Isle of Gigha - a community owned island sitting on the west of Kintyre peninsula and the most southerly of the southern Hebrides. But just wanted to add a bit of excitement to it, I was not taking the conventional route
As I poured over the timetables (lately Traveline Scotland, the Mecca of public transport users, has been a disappointment. I have had to make impromptu plan changes, like jumping on a bus headed elsewhere than where I had initially set off for). I counted the number of changes I had on my journey - twelve stages in total, fun time!
It was a bit after six on Saturday morning when I set off for Haymarket train station, excited about the day ahead and hoping all connections would work. Once the tickets were collected I was still on time for the earlier train to Glasgow Queen Street. So I boarded it. This turned out to be a lucky decision as the tunnel works in Glasgow meant the train was slow and it reached about twenty five minutes later than normal. If the same happened to my scheduled train I would have missed the connection. A short walk to Glasgow Central and I even had time to pick up a morning roll and coffee. As I was settling down on the 8:34 train to Ardrossan harbour, realised the train was much more busier than on any of my previous visits to Arran. Everyone was perhaps trying to make the best use of a beautiful day - golfers, cyclists, walkers and the tourists. Or perhaps the popularity of the island has grown manyfold since my first visit about a decade ago, and very well deserved popularity as well. We set off on time.
It was indeed a beautiful morning at the harbour, a snow dusted Arran stood in the distant horizon beyond the indigo sea, sparkling in the sunshine as white sail boats caressed the smooth surface of the water.
View of Arran from Ardrossan harbour |
Brodick castle in the morning light |
Brodick castle close-up |
Goatfell towering over Brodick bay |
The ruins of Lochranza castle was gleaming in the sun as the bus went past it. I had hoped to take a few photographs but the delayed bus meant I did not have time for it. The ferry was still there, its belly open to let in man and machines. A very jolly member of the crew welcomed me on board. As soon as I entered the car deck, the ferry set off. Probably it was waiting for the bus as that's what normally happens in this part of the world. I have not been on any of these shorter Calmac ferry crossings. Life here is very different, with an air of informal friendliness. You get the tickets on the boat from a tiny cabin tucked by the car deck (also providing sheltered seating and toilets). Normal seating is on the upper decks. Crossing over to a part of Scotland I had never been to, it felt like I had already stepped into a different world.
The views back to Arran were fabulous though not suitable for photographs in the strong midday sun. After the craziness of Brodick, it was pleasantly calm with only a few passengers on the deck, and the accompanying sound of the wind and the dull drone of the motor. It was a short crossing, about half an hour and was very calm in this weather.
Arran from the ferry heading to Claonaig |
Looking back at Arran |
Claoinaig ferry |
Enjoying the sun and the wind |
Arran from Claonaig |
Islay ferry at Kennacraig |
The ferry to Gigha leaves from Tayinloan and the next bus from Tarbert was after a couple of hours, the only extended break on my long journey. I had decided to spend the time in Tarbert, visiting the castle and walking around the harbour. I indulged in some fish and chips from the Loch Fyne Fish Bar. You can always taste a fresh fish and a good batter, especially when it is served by a very friendly face, always ready to break into the most pleasant smile as she served her customers.
Tarbert harbour |
Tarbert harbour |
Tarbert castle |
Local shop |
From the bus stop at Tayinloan post office, it was a ten minutes walk down to the ferry terminal. I had met a couple from Glasgow on the bus who were heading for Gigha. They were retired and utilising their free bus travel to the fullest. While walking down to the the ferry terminal, saw the ferry from Gigha already approaching. It is a short twenty minutes crossing and the ferry goes to and fro every thirty minutes between Ardminish and Tayinloan. As the paps of Jura rose dramatically across the water, I could not resist taking some photographs. 'We will hold the ferry for you' the couple called out to me. The 4pm ferry was ready to board as I reached. The ferry was similar to the one from Arran to Claonaig and the crew as friendly.
Paps of Jura from Tayinloan |
Gigha and Jura from Tayinloan |
Here is a summary of my connections
Stage 1: 6:20 am - Walk to Haymarket train station
Stage 2: 6:36 am - Train from Haymarket to Glasgow Queen Street
Stage 3: 8:00 am - Walk from Glasgow Queen Street to Glasgow Central train station
Stage 4: 8:34 am - Train from Glasgow Central to Ardrossan harbour
Stage 5: 9:45 am - Ferry from Ardrossan to Brodick
Stage 6: 11:15 am - Bus from Brodick to Lochranza (after delay)
Stage 7: 12:00 pm - Ferry from Lochranza to Claonaig
Stage 8: 12:40 pm (approx) - Bus from Claonaig to Tarbert
Stage 9: 3:08 pm - Bus from Tarbert to Tayinloan post office
Stage 10: 3:45pm - Walk to Tayinloan ferry
Stage 11: 4:00 pm: Ferry from Tayinloan to Ardminish
Stage 12: 4:20 pm - Walk to Gigha Hotel
Just for comparison, here is my return journey
Stage 1: 4:30 pm - Ferry to Tayinloan
Stage 2: 4:50 pm - Walk from ferry to post office
Stage 3: 5:30 pm - Bus from Tayinloan to Glasgow
Stage 4: 9:30 pm - Bus from Glasgow to Edinburgh
Stage 5: 10:30 pm - Walk back from Haymarket
Some photographs from the rest of the evening from Gigha. For more photographs and other stories, you can always visit my Facebook page Breaking out Solo
The last ferry to Islay as the sun sets |
Islay as viewed from Gigha |
The Islay ferry goes past the paps of Jura |
Glorious sunset |
Golden clouds over Islay and Jura |
Church silhouette |