North Kolkata, a part of the city that still holds on to a bygone era. Old mansions towering over interconnected narrow lanes, are both a charm and a cause of confusion to the uninitiated.
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A 300 year old traditional puja of the zamindars |
It was in these part of the city when Durga Puja, once a proprietary of the rich
zamindars (landlords) broke out from the realms of the privileged and came to the common masses. It became an event for the community, of the community and by the community,
Sarbojonin Durgotsav was born and Bagbazar was the first place to celebrate it over a century ago. The puja in its current form is being celebrated for the past 77 years, retaining its traditional roots in the image of the deity and the celebrations. When the world has moved on to more theme based
pujas, taking artistic liberty in depicting the Goddess, Bagbazar remains a breathe of fresh air. It has always been my favourite.
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Bagbazar Sarbojonin with its impressive chandelier |
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The traditional image of the Goddess in Bagbazar |
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Bagbazar Sarbojonin pandal |
A cup of hot tea in earthen cups, it was time to move on. The crowd was gradually building.
Next stop, Kumortuli, the neighborhood of the potters. This is the place where the Goddess takes her form in the deft fingers of the artisans. It is a photographer's paradise in the months preceding the
puja, capturing the flurry of activities. Work proceeds at a blinding pace to cater for the thousands of orders placed from all across the world. The idols have to be ready and carefully packed to be shipped to far distance places months in advance, to Europe and the States, where the local Bengali community will be trying to painstakingly recreate a piece of their homeland. Once the mad rush ends, it is time to worship the deity in the same neighbourhood she was born in. A couple of famed
pujas of Kumortuli, who try to see the Goddess in a different from than the traditional.
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Durga in a circus act - Kumortuli Sarbojonin |
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Styrofoam Lotus - at Kumortuli park |
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Kumortuli park sculpture |
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Kumortuli Park's depiction of the Goddess |
Walking through the narrow lanes, the next stop is Ahiritola, another
puja famed for its different outlook, well, sometimes can be too bizarre of which they also have a history of. This year, it probably was an artists workshop, unfinished artworks stacked around the deity.
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Ahiritola |
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Ahiritola - artist's workshop |
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Ahiritola exterior |
It is always a pleasure to visit some more of the
pujas around Ahiritola, especially the traditional
puja of B. K. Pal park
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B K Pal Park |
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Photographing the Goddess - at B K Pal park |
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Ahiritola Jubabrindo |
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Ahiritola Jubabrinda |
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Ahiritola Jubabrinda |
As I said earlier, in the past couple of decades, Durga Puja has moved from the more traditional to a theme based celebration, where current affairs play a significant role. Industrialisation, and the human race's complete subjugation to the machines with a complete disregard to nature is one of the such. This is the theme at the
puja of Kashi Bose Lane this year. Well depicted taking aide of sound and lighting, the puja has won the best theme award in North Kolkata.
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Kashi Bose Lane - Humans and Industrialisation |
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Kashi Bose Lane |
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Kashi Bose Lane |
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Kashi Bose Lane |
The rush of
Panchami (fifth day, the sixth day is considered the start of the
puja) evening was starting, so was time to escape before mobility was heavily hampered. The law enforcers were everywhere in large numbers, as were volunteers systematically managing the crowd and the traffic. It was time to head back home but not before visiting the FD block in Salt Lake. The theme was digital, where we are hooked up to the network, physically a part of it, through our social media and the internet in general.
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Digital world - FD block, Salt Lake |
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FD block, Salt Lake |
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