Vienna - In a day and bit more

Schonbrunn palace

Christmas in Vienna

After an almost disaster of a day Vienna on a very short visit - the Arrival had a good night's sleep and woke up refreshed - it was Christmas day. With so much to see and my limited time, I was struggling to plan, so just made a mental note of the three main places I would like to see - Hofburg palace, St Stephen's cathedral and Schonbrunn palace. Still, made a quick check at the reception and was quite surprised to find that most of the places were open even on Christmas day.

A fulfilling traditional Viennese breakfast (they do serve an amazing variety at the Hotel Regina and breakfast is a busy time at the restaurant) and I was ready for my day. The sun was just about peaking over the trees, the towers of the Votive church gleaming in the sunshine. It was freezing. 

Since I was already at its doorstep, I walked into the Votive church before I headed off to the centre. Built in Neo-Gothic style towards the end of the 19th century, it's purpose was to thank God for saving the Emperor's life from a failed assassination attempt. The main alter was impressive. The morning service was about to begin as I had a quick look around.

Votive church

Votive church facade

Votive church interiors

Hofburg palace

Hofburg palace, the former imperial residence is about a 15mins walk from my hotel, which I would have made within the time had I not been distracted by all that stood around me as I walked down the cobble stone streets.. The traffic was indeed interesting.

Vienna traffic

Vienna sculptures

Vienna horse drawn carriages

The crowd was yet to start when I reached the Imperial palace. Dressed in periodic costume, some agents were trying to sell cheap tickets to evening concerts to tourists. I was approached by one and was almost convinced to get a student discounted ticket for the evening show at a church on the other side of the Ring. I had been warned about such concerts as they only turn out to be a disappointment, so better to always buy from a reputed place. Telling them I will think it over, walked away.

Being on a tight schedule I figured out I would not have time to visit the Imperial rooms and the Sisi museum. Rather, I would just walked around the grounds and feel the vibe.

Hofburg palace

Hofburg palace

Hofburg palace

Hofburg palace

I eventually had to give in to some museum time as the sign pointing to the Imperial Treasury was too difficult to ignore. Decided to have a 12 Euros sneak in. Walking through a thousand years of treasures from a prosperous European history was indeed fascinating and I did wish I had more time, which unfortunately I was running short on.

Hofburg palace Imperial treasury museum

Hofburg palace treasury museum

Hofburg treasury museum

Hofburg palace treasury museum

Hofburg palace treasury museum

Hofburg palace

Multilingual tourist groups and a sea of selfie sticks had started to fill the palace grounds when I moved on further towards the centre of Vienna.

I walked past the Albertina without visiting. The museum didn't look that busy, probably the city was still waking up in the cold. By now the light had turned into a beautiful golden glow and Vienna looked glorious. The shops were all closed, and people were sitting around soaking in the mild winter sun. Away from the sun it was freezing.

Walking around Vienna

Walking in Vienna

Vienna - Albertina

Streets of Vienna

Vienna

St Stephen's church

St Stephen's church forms the geographical centre of Vienna. Didn't have to look much at the map to find it, as everyone seemed to be walking in that direction anyway. And then the spires came into view followed by the richly decorated roof.

As I entered, the Christmas mass was in progress and the cathedral was filled to capacity - both with the worshippers and the casual visitors. I felt lucky to be present there at the right moment and observed the ceremony from the back.

St Stephen's church with its intricate roofwork

Christmas mass in St Stephen's

St Stephen's beautifully lit up interiors

As it ended, the crowd dispersed as people waiting outside thronged in. I tried to make my way in, wading through the mass of coach bus tourists. St Stephen's Cathedral or Stephansdom is the most important religious place in Vienna and has seen centuries of Austrian history, standing witness to many a great event. Also being at the centre of Vienna, it is a must see on the list of every visitor to Vienna. When I was walking past it the day after, a long queue led on to the square from the entrance, it was at least not that bad today. Visiting the cathedral can also include a trip up to the North tower (accessible by elevator), South tower (through stairs), the Catacombs and the Treasure. A combined ticket costing around 17 Euros can be purchased or a separate for each which costs around 5.50 Euros. There are timings for groups to be taken down to the Catacomb and you will have to wait at the entrance. I bought the tickets for the North Tower only. At higher ground, it gives a decent view of Vienna. It also gives an opportunity to study the intricate roof design up close.

View from St Stephen's north tower

St Stephen's roofwork

Came down the tower and walked around the cathedral, dodging more selfie sticks. It is a beautiful church, just like all churches in Austria. I had been looking into quite a few lesser known ones as well through the day as I walked past them. No wonder I was running short on time.

Prayers

St Stephen's interiors

The Christmas market at Stephansplatz was just about picking up with people lining up for their lunch. I was still feeling full from my big breakfast, so headed for the Underground. My next stop would be Schonbrunn palace.

Schonbrunn palace

From Stephansplatz, the U2 line would take me to Karlsplatz and from there the U4 line to Sconbrunn. I purchased a 24 hours ticket from the machine with Euro 7.60 which I could use the next day as well. Alternative was to get  two single tickets at Euro 2.20 each, but the 24hour would give me more flexibility in case I had more plans in the evening, or I got myself to a wrong station. Validated the tickets at the blue box entering the platform.

The sun had completely disappeared when I came out of the Underground at Sconbrunn and a heavy mist was descending. Again, all I had to do was to follow the crowd to reach the palace. Picked up some Bratkartoffein or roasted potato from a roadside stall, served in a paper cone to fight off some mild pangs of hunger.

Schonbrunn at first glimpse does not fail to impress. With its 1,441 rooms, it stretches its wings across the vast grounds. The former Imperial summer residence, this is the most important architectural, cultural and historical monument of the country. It's vast grounds with the fountains and sculptures are worth a visit and so is the oldest zoo in Vienna which stands within the grounds. A Christmas stood in the exact centre, surrounded by a Christmas market.  

A visit to Schonbrunn can be extended to visit the Imperial rooms, the parks and the zoo, but certainly not on a very short visit. I decided to go for the shortest tour - the 22 rooms Imperial tour which would take just over half an hour supported by an audio guide. Having visited, I could also recommend the 40 rooms Grand tour, it is a fascinating place to be and this is coming from a person who is not a fan of museums and audio guides. Once you purchase the tickets, note the timing on it as you will be allowed entry only after the noted time. Also you have to leave your backpack outside.

Photography is not allowed inside the palace, hence no pictures.

It was twilight, and the Christmas market was picking up as I ended my tour of the palace. The rest of the evening on the palace grounds was spent sampling pretzels, goulash served in a bread bowl and hot punch. A freezing fog had descended wrapping the palace in a mystic diffused light from the high powered halogen lamps.

Christmas market on the grounds of Schonbrunn palace

Live music at Schonbrunn palace

Pretzels

Goulash served in bread bowl

Freezing fog descends on Sconbrunn Christmas market

Schonbrunn palace during Christmas

Schonbrunn in the fog

Needless to say my knee was the most tired part of my body as I hobbled back to the hotel. Any plans of an evening rendezvous was dropped as I decided to call it an early night. I would be visiting Bratislava next day, and would have liked to catch an early train. Would have some time on 27th in Vienna again, depending on when I wanted to go to Prague.

A wander around Vienna

I was still undecided whether to take the 3pm train or the 5pm train to Prague. It was a 4hr journey, so after some deliberation, decided to take the earlier train so as to find my way to the hotel at a decent time. I still had the morning to wander around Vienna, and that's what I did, using the Underground to speed me up. 

Starting of at Prater park where I was too early for the ride on the historic wheel, walked over to the Danube and strolled by it to the St Francis church enticed by its towers. Was mesmerised by the beautiful choir singing. From there I took the Underground back to the Stephansplatz and walked the cobble streets around. I had to get back to the hotel by 2pm to pick up my luggage, but still managed a few minutes at the beautiful building of the Viennese parliament. That was all I could do and I had to turn back. 

When I had initially planned, I already had a very short time in Vienna. This was further cut short by my missed flight connection. As many had told when I had mentioned my upcoming visit, it is a fascinatingly beautiful city. I was left with the same feeling. And as like the many other places I have visited, this just adds to the list of somewhere I would like to return and see it in more detail. 

But given I only had a day and half and that it doesn't take me much to lose focus when am traveling, I can happily say that I got enough flavour Vienna to be tempted back again.

Some photographs to capture the day...  

Wiener Reisnard - the giant ferry wheel of Vienna at Prater park. over a century old and at one point the highest Ferris wheel

Prater park

Walking by the Danube

A misty smoking Danube

St Francis of Assisi

St Francis of Assisi choir

St Francis of Assisi

Mozart house - one of the many places he lived

Streets of Vienna

Streets of Vienna

Walking around Vienna

The parliament

Parliament photoshoot

At the parliament

Trams on the roads of Vienna

The Underground at Shottentor

P.S: An observation - It is extremely easy to travel on the Underground without a valid ticket, There are no barriers and almost no checks. Some of the locals have said they met a ticket collector maybe once or twice in a year. Well, I had less than two days in Vienna, and guess what? I did meet one of these elusive entities who boarded the train just for one station - I had a valid ticket, and very impressively, so did everyone else on the train he checked. 

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