A second visit to Iona

A getaway to nature and spirituality

My last trip to Iona was a short, one hour stopover on my way back from the remarkable Staffa. That was almost a decade ago. It had been a normal stormy day and the short stop did not give not much scope to look around the place.

When a couple of weeks ago I found myself in Oban on an unplanned holiday, I thought why not have a proper visit to this beautiful island. The weather had not been too bad for the past few days, and the glorious sight of the white sands and blue water sparkling under the sun, looked like a possibility. I have lately stopped checking the forecast when visiting the west coast of Scotland unless I am planning to go up the hills. Relying on the forecast meant I won't be leaving the house, ever! This time as I was wandering around the visitor centre in Oban, I was told the weather was going to be beautiful. That was what the forecast was saying this time.

So on this Friday morning I was on the 7:40 am ferry to Craignure on Mull. It was a cloudy start, but the early morning sun made for some dramatic sky. As we passed Duart castle, what a difference it was from the day before on my way to Coll (A day on the Isle of Coll)

Looking back at Oban enroute Craignure

Duart castle

Off from the short 45mins Calmac ferry ride which gives enough time for a proper breakfast, I was waiting in the queue for the West Coast service to Fionnphort. The connecting bus service takes an hour and a quarter to reach Fhionnphort from where a 10 mins ferry ride connects to Iona. The ferry service is frequent, about twice in half an hour at its quickest. The combined ferry tickets can be bought from Oban, a return ticket costing about £15 for a foot passenger if I remember correct. The bus tickets are to be bought while boarding and cost a £14 return. I was told to leave Iona no later than the 3pm ferry or else I would miss the last bus.

The forecast of good weather did not hold. It was bitterly cold and raining as the ferry reached Iona. So much for the glorious views I was looking forward too. The Abbey of St Columba stood out majestically.

Abbey of St Columba

Approaching Iona

Approaching Iona

Taking the winding road up to the abbey, I stopped at the impressive ruins of the nunnery and had a look around. Tried to pat a purring cat which was determined to make me trip, but was met with extreme hostility! Watch out if you see it around, it looked like a resident.

Nunnery in Iona

Cat

Walking past the Heritage centre, the cemetery was the next stop. This had been the royal burial grounds during the 9-11 century where Scottish, Irish and Norwegian kings were laid to rest. The rain was coming down heavily and I wanted to make a quick getaway to the shelter of the Abbey on the other side of the wall. Rather than using the gates, climbing the wall seemed a better idea and that's what I did. Was walking away jolly pleased with myself, having saved some legwork when a young man came out from the visitor centre. I had blissfully ignored the tiny shelter by the gates. 'You know you have to get the tickets!' Ah, I had not realised there was an entry fee to the abbey. Was very embarrasing as getting a free ride was not all my intention, I was just being lazy. I tried to explain this to the young man and in my defence said I did not see any sign for the tickets. He pointed me to the notice which obviously was visible now. 'If you came through the gate like normal people do...'. I bit my tongue. I paid for the tickets costing about £7 and was even eager to pay for an audio guide (which I would not do under normal circumstnces) but then, that came free. I could only hope he would be amused at my folly. Later I met him at the abbey and he gave me a wave and a smile, so hopefully it was all fine.

Abbey of St Columba

Steeped with history, the Abbey of St Columba and its beautiful architecture mingling old and new, is worth the visit. Would recommend the audio guide and do visit the museum at the back of the abbey for a look at the copy of the book of Kells. The Chapter house and the dormitories are now used by the Iona community.
Some photographs from the Abbey of St Columba.

Abbey of St Columba

Abbey of St Columba

Abbey of St Columba

Abbey of St Columba

Abbey of St Columba

Abbey of St Columba

Abbey of St Columba

Abbey of St Columba

Abbey of St Columba

After visiting the abbey church, I spent some peaceful moments in the tiny St Columba's shrine. The rain was relentless outside.

I had spent more time at the abbey than I had anticipated. I next headed off to the north of the island to see the couple of beaches, a short walk from the abbey through the machairs and cows. The rain stopped for a brief moment as I stood on the white sands, the blue green sea in front of me and not another soul in sight. Watched the gannets in the distance diving for fish, the pap of Jura hazy in the horizon.

Grazing sheep Iona

Beautiful white sand beach of Iona

Beautiful white sand beach of Iona

Beautiful white sand beach of Iona

Beautiful beaches of Iona

Iona is only three and a half miles long and a mile wide. When I planned my visit, I had hoped to walk most of it. However, the weather had not co-operated at all and I was cold and hungry. I started walking back, with a nice image of hot food and a hot drink in my head. I passed the sign for the path to Dun I. This is the highest point on Iona at just over 300 feet and on a clear day would give beautiful views all around. It was not a clear day and I was hungry. But I decided to take the short detour anyway. It was a short walk up, a bit boggy in places. At the cairn, the wind was strong and I stood in its shelter to take some photographs. It was impossible to hold the camera steady otherwise.

Black Sheep

Atop Dun I 

View from Dun I 

I was back on the path to the abbey no more than half an hour later since I left it. I was now definitely heading to the Martyr's bay bar for my lunch. While leaving the abbey I had asked at the visitor centre for a place to eat and the girl had mentioned there were only four places on the island. A couple of hotels, the cafe at the Heritage centre and the Martyr's by bar. Since I did not want anything fancy she had recommended the last one and had also warned I might be put off by the sight of the place but the food is delicious. I had a simple vegetable soup and a roll, sat at a table by the large glass window which looks out to the sea and Fionnphort. With a millionare shortbread and a tea to finish off, it was heaven. On a better day it is also possible to sit outside on the deck. I saw the ferry coming in from Fionnphort and decided to take it. But still got some time to buy some home baking for the road as I was leaving. The sun had started to break through the clouds. By the time I reached Fionnphort the sky had cleared and everything the sun touched glowed in gold.

Back to Fionnphort

St Columba's abbey from Fionnphort

Fionnphort beach

It had turned out to be a beautiful day eventually, but too late for me. The last bus was leaving in the next few minutes. But at least I got to see how the white sands and blue sea looked under the sun for which I came. We started back towards Craignure.

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